I'm putting together a 500A2 and wonder what is the best way to attach a barrel lug. I'm using a Pac-Nor barrel not one of the fancy ones that Butch Searcy makes with the lug machined in place. I've heard that Tig welding one on is a no no and have seen some old mausers that appear to be silver soldered in place. What is the best approach? I've also heard that if you use a good synthetic stock and steel bed the action properly that you don't need one. I noticed that the CZ550 uses a floating barrel lug that sits behind a barrel extention that is milled in place. I'd appreciate the thoughts of anyone who has done this before.-Rob

I think the best way to make one is get a piece of Cr-mo tubing with an id slightly under the barrel diameter where you'll fit it, and taper bore it on the lathe to fit. Then weld a 3/8" steel plate to the tube, clean up on the mill, and tap it 1/4-28. Attach to the barrel via silver solder. If you want it hidden, section the tubing to ~1/3 barrel diameter. Personally, I think making it full barrel dia, and making the top of it into a sight base is the best way to do it.

I made the one on my 458 lott hidden, and its held up to 100's of full patch loads. I placed the lug ~5" in front of the actions recoil lug.

I've seen articles of folks who've machined steel recoil plates that mesh to the action's recoil lug, and are glassed into the stock. These plates are ~3" long in front of the action.

Most folks just don't shoot big bores enough to find what heavy recoil will do to a stock. Personally, I won't build a 416 or larger without dual recoil lugs, just isn't worth the shortcut when you've put all the effort into the project.

Drill and tap and glass is effective as is silver solder and drill and tap...I prefer silver solder...it is proven effective for rear sight ramps, sights, barrel band swivels, lugs and front sights. It has been the standard for years....

Intregal is best of course...but just one hell of a lot more expensive.

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

I had better qualify that silver solder use before someone get picky and attacks that statement...Not high content silver, but something on the order of Force 44-40 that will melt at around 400 to say 600 degrees, but has some silver in it.

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com