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I've made a few, with a rotary table on my mill, but milling off 0.9" of steel, by going round-and-round, takes forever. Anybody got a speedier way to do it? Yes I know Talley makes/sells them but I like to use the pre-64 bases from Dakota, so I need to make one to match. Thanks | ||
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Or do what Purdey did? And just braze the block that the swivel attaches to to the barrel and forget all about the band? https://s-media-cache-ak0.pini...78ed59e9580ae37c.jpg | |||
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Well, I do them in the rotary in a 4 jaw and offset the material. I punch the center hole with a drill and drop a chucking reamer through it for size. Or a boring head if its an odd ball. Then I punch two roughing cuts on either side of the stud with a 3/8ths carbide slot mill and on the last one, I just climb mill the outer perimeter with the rotary. Very noisy and it does take about 15 or 20 minutes each if I'm tooled up and doing a few. A horizontal machine with a form cutter would be faster because you could cut a blank a foot or two long and then just part off what you need to make one, I suppose. But, me-no-got-him. sling swivel band by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years! Rod Henrickson | |||
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Re: Purdey -- A little hesitant to run a barrel up to red-hot for brazing. I think if it wasn't warped/bent before that would do it. | |||
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Thanks Rod - I'll have to think through the offset but it seem to cut down on the milling involved. | |||
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Yep- after I made my first, I bought the next one from Midway......... I used nearly exactly the technique Rod describes. Slow and tedious on a small machine, hence the purchase. Doug Wilhelmi NRA Life Member | |||
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I do the entire outer perimeter in one big CHOMP, in the rotary. There really isn't a lot of material left after the two plunge cuts with the slot mill. It's a slow turn, maybe a minute or two. Because you are cutting 3/4 inch on the side of the end mill it does set up some rather annoying racket. The time waster is setup and changing tools. A CNC would take all of the fun out of it. But if I did it on a CNC I would be cutting a foot long piece of material at a time between centers on the bottom of an end mill, advancing the dividing head 2-1/2 minutes at a crack and going like a bat-out-of-hell. Then part off bits as I needed it and bore the hole in the lathe. Far to many cuts to do that in a single stage machine. When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years! Rod Henrickson | |||
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Cnc | |||
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Thanks again Rod. My mill doesn't have the beef to make a one-pass 3/4" side cut but it turned out fine. It needs some clean up. | |||
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Yeah, offsetting the material so that you can remove the bulk with a couple of plunge cuts kind of takes all the fun out of it. I thought about it a bit after I mentioned it and I always start my cut on the left hand side, which means I was milling conventionally. That's probably what I did to break some of the chatter and cut down the noise. (it's still a really noisy operation) I think I probably climb milled back around to finish. It seems to me I use 3/8ths carbide at about 700 or 800 RPM. Much to slow for that cutter, but for some reason it was a necessity. I should write all this shit down somewhere so I don't have to re-think and re-learn it every time I do it. I guess I'm just to damned lazy to be even more lazy than I am! When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years! Rod Henrickson | |||
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I could water jet these out of steel plate and deliver a 4x8 sheet of them to anyone who wants. Just a little polishing needed. And drilling a little hole. | |||
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