I meant what kind of liquids do you guys use to clean that old gun that hasn't been cleaned since the Roosevelt Administration, (Teddy's)?
I bring this up because I have torn down a Lefever Nitro Special, that other than the crud in every possible nook and cranny, looks to be in good shape. Looks like 60 - 70 years worth of blood and guts, sweat, leaves, dust and dirt mixed with gun oil and allowed to harden. Hope it doesn't loosen up when it's clean. (g)!
I have a small benchtop parts washer that I used to use with kerosene, but it smelled up the place, was flammable and generally toxic, hard to dispose of properly. I'd like to find a good substitute.
Seems like Brownells has about 15 different solutions from the toxic TCE 1-1-1 stuff to some harmless, water soluble, biodegradable solutions. Kano Labs, makers of Kroil have a product called Floway which is an external engine cleaner that they say is excellent in parts washers. And I'm sure there's a myriad of others.
What say you all? Does the water based stuff reall work? What's cost effective for the tinkerer guy at home?
Thanks, Rob
Posts: 1693 | Location: East Coast | Registered: 06 January 2003
I've used many different products over the years but keep coming back to Kerosene because it is relatively cheap, easy to get and works great. Stoddards solvent is also great for removing heavy buildup of hardened grease and related crap. As far as being flamable goes, I've dropped lit cigarettes in Kerosene which only makes them soggy and hard to relight...
Petroleum cleaning solvents should always be used with adequate ventilation so fumes should be tolerable, but if you absolutely need something that is biodegradable and scentless, I've used Brownells De'Solve with limited success. Simple green works about as well. Kerosene, an M-16 cleaning brush and an assortment of dental tools is hard to beat.
Trichlorethylene for a solvent or boiling solution of trisodium phosphate (don't use on aluminum). The tsp I have used for guns that have never been cleaned and the old oil has been oxidized to varnish. It's amazing how much crud comes out of these old guns. No fumes to worry about but keep off skin and eyes.
I have used the TSP and that works well. I wanted to get away from having to worrying about the drying and reoiling but I guess if that's the berries, that's it.
Malm, I guess I'll keep using the kero until something better comes alongf. Thanks, Rob
Posts: 1693 | Location: East Coast | Registered: 06 January 2003
I use an ultra-sonic cleaner. The solution I use for cleaning is Chem-Crest 235. I then use Chem-Crest 400-L for lubrication. These are put out by Crest Ultrasonics Corp. Scotch Road P.O. Box 7266 Tenton, N.J. 08628.
Posts: 1557 | Location: Texas | Registered: 26 July 2003
I've posted this before, but a good trick to do with parts washers that have kero in them is to put a couple inches of water in the bottom of the tank, then position the pickup so it stays in the kero. Most all the washed off crud will settle out into the water this way and keep the kero quite clean. Every so often siphon off the kero and dispose of the water/junky stuff and replace it, but the kero will last a long long time this way.
Posts: 7775 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000
Hot soapy water, use a detergent grease cutting dish soap..then boil the parts....works better than anything else and you may have to use a tooth brush a little...
Posts: 42203 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000
I have never found any of the new fangled cleaners worth a damned in the parts washer. I have used straight mineral spirits for the last 20 yrs or so. Like Malm says keep it simple.