Anyone out there care to run through in detail, the method of selecting & then fitting the feet to allow mounting a rail mount scope on a Drilling?

I have a Sauer Drilling which already has bases, however I wish to fit a different scope - without having the gun returned to Germany!

Luckily, we have some excellent metal workers available - however, I'm keen to find out if there are any 'tricks' or pitfalls to watch out for.

Rgds

Ian

The feet on the rear ring usually come as bar stock. The notches are then cut for proper engagement with the locking mechanism in the rear base.

In modern times, the front feet are machined to fit the bases of that specific manufacturer.

The parts can be obtained from:
http://www.eaw.de/en/products/claw-mounts.html

From experience, I can tell you that it comes out best if you install new bases. If you want to fit new rings to old bases, you really need to find someone with a lot of experience. I used NECG here in the US.

Or Recknagel:

http://www.recknagel.de/Joomla...5-Einhakmontagen.pdf

Thanks Guys,

The existing feet are available for comparison by the smith and are actually made by AKAH.

I have been in touch & they can supply new rear bases for fitting, so the idea has potential.

Keep well,

Ian

This thread was timely because I have 2 98s that I am having to find/make/fit claw bases to. One is a pre 1913 O.G. Scherrel in 8x57I and a Sempert & Krieghoff in 5.4x35 (22 Hornet). Both are missing the mounts and scope. I purchased a "vintage" (relative term) scope from a gentleman in Germany that seems to specialize in them on eBay. It is on it's way. It uses the rail system and I figured this would be easiest to work with for a DIY. Years back I saw and saved the link (wish I could find it LOL) to a European site that listed their claw mounts and gave the dimensions for the mount including the feet. Does anyone have or know what site that might have been? I looked at the EAW, AKAH and Recknagels (which it may be)sites. Does anyone know if the AKAH catalog gives the dimensions before I order one?

Thanks in advance
Thaine

AKAH produces no longer parts for claw mounts.
What they sell is produced by the above mentioned companies.
A newcomer to the scene as follows.
http://www.zp-einhakmontage.de/front_content.php

If you rifles are such old ones, I think the correct way to mount scopes to them is claw mounts with half rings soldered to scope. Scope with rail suits better to rifle which has been made after WWII, in 1950-1960´s.

Heaven, thanks for another source and the info.

Igor, I agree with what you say about style. However, until I can find the proper scope in suitable condition at a price I can afford, I plan to use the rail mount for at least one (the Hornet) as a suitable substitute. While originality would be nice, usability is foremost for me at this point. I would love to restore these to something close to what their original configuration might have been, but I am also looking at the practicality of wanting to use them in the foreseeable future. At my age, I appreciate a scope for total use, not just twilight and am working to achieve that goal in scope selection.

Another question I have is whether modern adhesives could be used with a saddle type ring and scope, without having to worry about soldering. This would give the aesthetics and appearance of the original while simplifying the process. I would think it would need a high shear strength and don't know if that is available in a suitable thin coat adhesive. I already have a nice Kahles 4X of the proper style that could be used on the 8x57. The scope in route is a 6X Hubertus for the Hornet.

Drilling and tapping or silver soldering are still your best choices for attachment. For the 22 Hornet there may be some modern adhesive's but I think I would (personally) be a little embarrassed to use them on a classic rifle.

Personally, I will be embarking on "Claw fitting" shortly so that I can offer it as a service through my business. This subject could not be any more pertinent as this ol' beauty is supposed to arrive tomorrow.



Once I have the heights established a set of EAW rings will be inbound. An important factor to remember is both scope length and the objective in relation to the pivot point.

http://www.eaw.de/assets/files/27_EM_allg-Schi-LR.pdf
http://www.eaw.de/assets/files...EM_VP-Schi-VF-HF.pdf

NECG is a distributor of EAW parts.

Nathan,

I guess my problem is I am not sure what is involved with the soldering of mounts to a scope. I assume (right or wrong) that the process would use the lowest temp lead/tin solder available and a iron for heat. My concern would be too much heat thereby damaging the scope and requiring a overhaul or even permenantly damaging it. So far I haven't been able to find much on optics and optics repair. My thoughts about using an adhesive were based on the idea it would be invisable and eliminate the risk of heat. Granted there wouldn't be a solder line at the junction, but otherwise I would think the effect would be similar. While I would like to return these rifles to use as soon as possible, I don't want to do anything to alter their origanilty. That's why I am looking at using a rail scope for the Hornet initialy. Once I acquire a suitable replacement, I should be able to recoup my expense on it via evil bay.

Looking forward to seeing how the rifle you showed turns out.

EAW has a option.


I guess being a Smart arse is a German thing

After reading everything a search for claw turned up in the Optic section and seeing the pictures of the soldered scope, that might be a viable option! Is there an option for OD colored tape? LOL.

Looks like I will be spending some time looking for a scope with the same spacing or settle for newer full rings with claws/feet to fit. I have plenty of time so that seems the best option.

If you do decide to solder half-rings to the scope, the correct procedure is of course to dissassemble the scope first. You then solder the rings to the empty tube.

thaine: if you use a scope with a front bell and you attache the ring behind the bell you will not be able to tip the scope foreward to release it. the claw when fitted to the base is critical when fitting the rear contact point. this point is where the claws push foreward to make a snug fit on the front claws. i hope this is helpful.

It all depends on how the scope is mounted. Below is my Waffen Honold 7x64 from the late 30's early 40's. The scope is german, the rings look to be replacements probably from the 60's. The type of rings and scope must be considered but a small bell can be used. The height of the rings is perfect for a standing shot.



As JV stated I always assumed the rings were soldered on to an empty scope tube. Remember this was before the time of sealed scopes.

I wonder if one could purchase a scope tube, solder the rings on, and send it back to the manufacturer to have the scope assembled?

i agree this can be accomplised by using high mts but i assumed the scope would be mtd. in a standard low to medium profile. years ago [30] i made a set of claws and ring to fit around the front bell i silver soldered the claw to the lge ring and epoxied the ring to the bell i had drilled and tapped a hole between the claws and used a headless nylon screw to secure it to the bell to this day she is dead on and hasnt moved. ive done a few over the years and it can get tricky but with patience and no deadline it can be done quite well.

Not to hijack, but pictures of the rifle I got in today are here:
http://forums.accuratereloadin...301024471#5301024471

Here is an interesting post from the web http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.n...owthread.php?t=46644

I fould this a while ago and filed it away while I was researching for my Mannlicher Schoenauer restock project.