Nice! And just how do you do that?

On the end of the pin that fits into the shroud is a nub shaped like an hour glass you just need to grind one of the ends off. In the safe position it normally prevents the bolt from moving by contacting the edge of the notch in the back of the bolt at 12 oclock. It will be the nub that is at the bottom when the flag is raised into the safe position. the last oen I bought in "original" condition had been modified this way too. So I guess I'm not the only one that likes to open the bolt with the pin blocked.

z1r

I am curious about something, and a person can always learn something new. With the Mauser 98 firing pin constructed so it can't fire unless the bolt is in the closed position, and not needing to close the bolt to remove cartridges from the magazine of a 98 or one of its clones, why is the modification you do necessary? I can't see that it adds to the safety of the rifle and it can allow the bolt to open partially when you don't want it to.

That may be true but what I am trying to avoid is the thing firing when the bolt is closed during cycling to eject live rounds. I'm not that big a fan of hinged triggerguards. I'm not worried about the gun firing when not in battery. Does that make sense?

With the safety as original you cannot lift the bolt with the pin blocked. I like my mod especially for people that like aftermarket triggers and like to try to go too light on the pull. I've seen em discharge with forceful workingof the bolt. Obviously the real fix is to have the trigger properly adjusted. I simply like the ability and peace of mind of opening the bolt when the firing pin is blocked.

Now, if someone smarter than me (practically everyone) can see any blatant or potentially unsafe side effect of my mod please let me know. Like Idared said, a person can always learn something new.

Jim, you shouldn't be so quick to criticize.

from a user point of few, the 3 pos is generally easier to install.. and the 2 pos is cheaper for me as a gunbuilder to use.

I am indifferent, as I don't trust any safety, in any event... and I generally use the 3 pos as a open (ready) and a LOCKED (all the way back) and nearly never use the middle pos...

in the car, truck, whatever, it's an empty chamber, generally bolt open ALL the way, or in the field, safety on, one in the pipe... and taking the standard safety precuations...


seen too many times a guy at the range say "the safety is on.. SEE >boom>"

jeffe

DAMN GOOD POINT...RIGHT ON!

I do not see the problem with a 2-position safety, whether the bolt is locked or not seems irrelevant to me.



The bottom line in all of this is whether the safety is easily moved to the off-position (fire position) when needed in a hurry. I find that the 3-position Mod. 70 safety is slow and wasted effort. Although the safety on the Ruger is smaller, the large 3-position safety tends to get caught on brush. When I was fighting my way through the jess not too long ago, I glanced down at the safety on my Mod. 70 to see that the safety had somehow been moved to the off-position (fire position). I was just lucky that the jess didn't pull the trigger too!



It is probably also a personal preference thing but a simple, and small, 2-position safety is readily moved to the fire position and less prone to catching on brush. Safeties such as the Rem., the Mark X, the CZ, etc. are all that is needed and the fastest when needed in a hurry.



But to each their own.

Interesting. Come to think of it I don't ever actually close the bolt when emptying the mag. I cycle just enough as you say to pick up the round and then eject it. I guess I just don't like a locked bolt. Maybe I need to be more cerebral and see if there are advantages to a locked bolt that I haven't thought of. One advantage that I still see in my way of thinking is when going from an empty chamber mode to a chambered rtound mode you can do so with the safety already engaged. Maybe there is no real advantage to it but I kinda like the option. Like when getting out of the truck and chambering a round. I like the fact that I can do so with the safety already engaged. Interesting discussion.

One safety that I particularly dislike is the Mark X side safety. First off, I don't like that style safety. Secondly, I don't like the way that the mark X locks the bolt when in safe. They droped that feature when it was reintroduced as the Charles Daly.

I don't really think that whether or not a bolt is locked or not with the safety on is irrelevant, but that is strictly my opinion. I myself want that bolt to stay closed when the safety is on. I have had a rifle slung over my shoulder many times going through thick areas when I was using both hands to push away branches. I can see where it would be very easy to have the bolt come open if not locked, and it makes little difference if the rifle is loaded or empty. Even if it is empty you run the risk of some junk finding its way into the open bolt area you don't want if the bolt works its way open. As I said, this is my opinion and I don't claim it is right or wrong, but little or nothing is likely to change my mind on it. I guess the "Redneck" in me comes out here!!



I don't mean to hijack this thread, but a further question comes to mind that has been discussed in the past. Do most of you hunt with a round in the chamber with the bolt closed, or do you usually carry the bolt closed on an empty chamber and chamber a round when needed?

Idared,

You are right about the locked bolt in the safe position. I must have misinterpreted the discussion. If the bolt was not locked it would be like the middle position on the 3-position Mod. 70 type safety, which would not be a good thing. And yes, loaded and on safe.