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Ruger #1 Ques.
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I have a ruger #1. My question is: On the forearm hanger bar, is it supposed to be one piece. The one on mine was welded by the ejection spring. it seems to have been done at the factory but it was 2 pieces welded together? A bad weld job at that..........................OTTO
 
Posts: 947 | Location: NYB | Registered: 01 July 2002Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
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OTTOMATIC---

The receiver and hanger are two investment castings TIG welded together.

You say your's is bad.......did it break? I've never seen one broken but I've cut them off and rewelded several when installing special barrels.
 
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J Belk; No it didn't break. I was unaware that it was 2 pcs. Thought maybe someone screwed up at factory. Albiet the weld job ain't the purtiest.....Thanks for reply, Happy Holidays..OTTO
 
Posts: 947 | Location: NYB | Registered: 01 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Does your's shoot? I had a #1 in .243 and that thing would shoot patterns not groups. I hated that gun. I finally sold it and got a bolt action. I heard it is about a 50/50 chance that your number one won't or will shoot good. Best i could get out of that gun was literally a 4" group!!!!!!
 
Posts: 525 | Registered: 21 December 2002Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
posted
Dogcatcher---

Some Number Ones are a bear to make shoot. Certain ones had junk barrels....some have crooked threads, angled breech bolts and bad crowns, but the percentage isn't any higher than most bolt actions. They can usually be made to shoot but sometimes it takes some pretty specialized work.

They'll never be as consistant as a bolt action. There's too much hammer swinging to be super accurate, but I have one sho nuff 5/8" #1 in a wildcat 6mm and a K-Hornet that used to be that good before I shot it nearly out.
 
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<John Lewis>
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I've re-built a bunch of #1s that shoot sub 1/2moa. They can certainly be made to shoot if you want to spend the money on them. I personally have a #1B in .270 Wthby that I've done nothing to but adjust the trigger to 2 lbs. that will shoot under 1/2" at 100 yds. So, they can certainly shoot accurately. But as Jack alluded to, they are not bench rest rifles.
 
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Out of the 4 Ruger No. 1 rifles I have had, they were all awesome shooters out of the factory box. Of course, the smaller caliber Ruger No. 1 I have had was a 45-70. My current 416 Rigby Ruger No. 1 would print a one ragged hole in 50-yard with a scope and this rifle is bone stock without any performance modifications. Good luck!
 
Posts: 1002 | Location: Midwest USA | Registered: 01 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of HunterJim
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I bought my first Ruger #1 in the 70s, it has the bicentenial markings from '76. It is a #1B in 6 mm Rem, and is the most accurate out-of-the-box hunting rifle I have ever bought.

As an exercise once I did the math on all the groups I had shot with it, and the average of all groups fired was .75" -- that includes all the groups fired testing loads too. This was back in my bench rest days, and I did stuff like that back then. [Wink]

This rifle is untouched from the factory, and has a great trigger.

jim dodd
 
Posts: 4166 | Location: San Diego, CA USA | Registered: 14 November 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by JBelk

They'll never be as consistant as a bolt action.[/QB]

In terms of staying sighted in I rate a free floated #1 very high. And the free floating is something that anyone can do. It requires no specialized equipement or ablity.

While the comments on the slow locktime and hammer fall are correct I have found that the #1A that I have used for years (1969) to be a gun that I can count on.

Just before opening day I take all of the rifles to the range for a final check. Year after year I have ended up using the #1A as it's always right on. Opening day is a good time to use a SS rifle as I sit more on that day.

The newer #1S that I have has some creep in the trigger but it groups very well. I am going to sell this rifle. The triggers are very hard to work on and the path of least resistance is an older #1 as they have excellent triggers.

The #1 is one of the few rifles that I defer to an experianced smith on. But I can shoot my #1A rather well from a field position and it's trigger is very good. If I were to have a #1 for Schuetzen work then I might get a lighter hammer, stronger spring and better trigger.

Also the #1A seems heavier than it needs to be. Oh well I used to pay big bucks for High Walls so I should not complain. We owe a lot to Ruger for making the fabulous #1.

[ 12-27-2002, 21:03: Message edited by: Savage99 ]
 
Posts: 5543 | Registered: 09 December 2002Reply With Quote
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I thought this thread had died. I have a 7MM STW #1 in Stainless. Scoped with a Lepould VX-III 4.5X 14.5X50. Out of the box after sighting in with factory trigger 1" groupsat 100yrds.
I recently polished all the internals with 1500grit (mirror finish) including hammer and sear. Trigger is now about 3.5lbs maybe alitle less. Free floated forearm with washer. I haven't shot it since doing the work but I hope it does a little better if not I am still pleased . After all I did not buy it for long range target shooting , but hunting. .....OTTO
 
Posts: 947 | Location: NYB | Registered: 01 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Dogcatcher,

I used to own that rifle, too. [Smile]

However, I've had a #3 in .22 Hornet shoots MOA and a #1 in .45-70, floated and with a stiffer hammer spring, that shoots in the twelves.

[ 12-28-2002, 14:46: Message edited by: steve y ]
 
Posts: 612 | Location: Atlanta, GA USA | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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