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I have a composite type stock that the last 6" flexes. Only asking opinions...but instead of replacing the stock, would adding one or two layers of fiberglass stiffen the forend to keep it from tapping the barrel or am I just barking up the wrong tree? I am guessing it would at least add texture. I asked about this stock in an earlier post and was kindly and generously pointed to go to a variety of stockmakers including the maker of this stock and see what they would do for me. I had two of the three makers answer me, but each mentioned sending them stock, action, and barrel specs. I do not know what I would be talking about, so I asked what they specifically wanted without return results. One maker will not stock the rifle and need to send it to a gunsmith of which I have one who will do the work. One maker will stock the rifle. However, I didn't want to just send something to someone without them knowing about it and ok'ing it and still no answer. So I am sure I must be doing something wrong. I do not want to waste anyone's time because time is money. It seems in this world people might wanna help, but just do not have time to idly chat. Would someone be so kind as to point me in a direction or a book or literature that discusses this and what a stockmaker might want in term of the specs? Especially in light of the fact I have no clue except a standard stock like the one that is on the rifle except a strengthened forend....LOL! (I picked a barrel contour without knowing exactly what I would be getting, sent it out and had the rifle rebarreled only to get it back and discover it was rather heavy and cumbersome..again my fault.) This stuff is tough to gauge on the internet...LOL! 'I pledge allegiance to the flag of the United States of America and to the republic for which it stands, one nation under God, indivisable, with liberty and justice for all.' | ||
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Depending on the stock, you might just end up chasing your tail trying to stiffen it. With some flexible stocks you would be better off completely removing the forend at the recoil lug. If you are dead set on keeping the stock and the forearm, then you might consider increasing the gap between the barrel and forend to prevent any contact. The gap may be big and unsightly, but that is what you face with flexible stocks. Curious, what stock is it? _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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Westpac, it was the HS Precision stock we talked about and you gave me insight a few weeks ago. I was kinda concerned that I was gonna chase my tail with things if I tried fiberglass layers on the forend. I was just trying to come up with a fix if all else failed. I wonder if I increased the barrel gap if I wouldn't increase the flex of the forend. I'm not dead set on keeping the stock. I talked with two manufacturers including HS Precision and all said they could build a stock, but wanted specs. I sent them what I knew, but no one answered in return so I figured I was missing some vital information along the way and none of them seemed to answer back with the vital info I -was-missing. I mean I know it is a Rem 700 Magnum LA and could measure the LOP although I have longer arms, but I dunno if there is a specific kind of 'build' or information I am missing. I have sent both places the barrel contour information and measurements, but still didn't get a return reply. Thanks for your help and insight. Semper Fi! Spent 22 years active duty USMC with last duty station at MCAS New River. 'I pledge allegiance to the flag of the United States of America and to the republic for which it stands, one nation under God, indivisable, with liberty and justice for all.' | |||
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I can't picture the flex you are describing on the HS Precision stock. Those things are pretty rigid. All the way to the forend tip. I have opened HS stocks for "LARGE" diameter barrels and didn't notice any increased flex. Nothing of any concern or out of the ordinary. Is there a specific stock you were looking for when contacting the manufacturers? Does this HS stock not fit you? Usually these stock companies need to know action type, barrel contour and length of pull. Companies like HS Precision don't offer drop and pitch options unless you step up to one of the high dollar fully adjustable models. Which might be the thing to do if you are having problems getting a stock to fit you. Good luck and Semper fi! _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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RenegadeRN, Can you tell us what the exact conditions are under which this flexing occurs? What are you doing and what is the direction(s) of the flexing and the dynamics of the flexing? Mike Mike Ryan - Gunsmith | |||
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One of Us |
I have very successfully stiffened the forends on some molded stocks using unilaminar carbon fiber rod. 3 times the stiffness of steel of same diameter. I had one that behaved very badly with a bipod, or if you layed into it hard on sticks. The 1/4 inch rod in the forend and then several 1/8 inch pieces around the lug, and a camo dip did the trick. Use a good acrylic adhesive. | |||
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I purchased a Rem700 Sendero in .300WinMag a few years ago. It shot poorly even with reloads. I think it's why I was able to get such a great deal on the rifle. While not recoil sensitive, after about 15 rounds of .300WinMag I had to quit. I decided I wanted a little bit heavier barrel and muzzle break to hopefully compensate for some of the recoil. I sent the rifle to Hart and had it rebarreled with a BR1000 straight contour which is 30" long and 1.350" at the action and tapers to I think .850 or close to it at the muzzle. (Ok, I couldn't/didn't envision it being this big or heavy...LOL!) While it was there Hart kindly and graciously reworked the forend cleaning up the barrel channel so this 'behemoth' would fit the HS Precision that originally came with the Sendero. Floated, skim bedded, all the stuff done and it comes back to me. I was working up some loads and using a shooting rest and noticed after awhile the POI was changing on me. Well, I ain't the best shot so figured it might be me. I did some preliminary troubleshooting. I have always been told to tap the end of the forend/barrel channel on a floated barrel to see if the stock strikes/taps the barrel. This supposedly means that if the barrel heated up, expanding enough to touch the forend it could possible change the bullet's POI. I tapped the forend lightly for about the last 4" and the forend struck the barrel resoundingly. Yes, I know NOW the barrel is a lot larger than I need/needed,could use easily, etc....but its mine. I have thought about cutting a few inches off and having it recrowned because it is rather stout and not what could be considered a carrying rifle now. (But have no idea all the mechanics, physics, engineering of what would be right length) Anyway...the forend does not flex side to side, nor does it appear to twist. It has enuff flex in the forend when I strike the bottom of the forend near the swivel stud that the forend strikes the barrel. I want to eliminate anything that might change POI. The inside of the barrel channel didn't appear to be fiberglass or glass/resin material, but like some softer composite material. But I'm an RN and don't know didly about materials/mechancis in stock making...except walnut. Its one of the reasons I come here and just sit in awe of everything everyone does. I just wondered if applying fiberglass layers might eliminate the tapping or as has been suggested...get a new stock. Getting a new stock is/was my thought as has been suggested by Westpac. So I contacted the reps and after the initial contact no return answers. I know time is money to many in the business and I am sure that many in the business do not have time to sit down with you to discuss these things and before I contact them I needed to know what I wanted. I wondered what I was missing, so I am trying to do some research and at the same time maybe trying to find a fix...just in case. Thanks for all of your help and insight. 'I pledge allegiance to the flag of the United States of America and to the republic for which it stands, one nation under God, indivisable, with liberty and justice for all.' | |||
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And no Westpac...the stock fits me fine. Not looking for anything with drop and pitch. 'I pledge allegiance to the flag of the United States of America and to the republic for which it stands, one nation under God, indivisable, with liberty and justice for all.' | |||
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RenegadeRN, I've done what you propose to a couple of factory synthetic stocks and have been pleased with the results. With the typical tupperware type plastic used on many factory stocks, the biggest challenge is getting the resin to bond to it... What I would do is hog out some of the "soft" crap used in the forearm and replace it with layers of fibre glass mat/ resin. I'd also consider adding some alloy or carbon fiber tubes or flat bar in the mix as well. I used some aluminium "stays" out of an old internal frame rucksack on one I did.. What ever I did, I would not just do the last 6" of the stock, but would do the whole fore end..The only real down side is that it will add several ounces of weight, but I think thats a small price to pay to stop the flex.. Regards, Peter | |||
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Hey brother, HS Precision stocks have an aluminum spine that runs from the front sling stud back through the wrist. That soft chalky crap in the forearm is just filler. Truth be known, probably auto body filler. It does the job. How is the bed directly under the cylinder portion of the barrel. On heavy barrels I like to bed the barrel near, or, right out to the transition point where the taper begins. I find this helps provide added support. If you are still hearing barrel contact when you tap the forend, then you might be smacking it too hard. It's a Marine Corps trait. If you want to know if your barrel and forearm are making contract, put a little Prussian blue in the barrel channel near the tip and take it to the range. I didn't know that the RN in your handle "RenegadeRN" meant you were an RN. That's outstanding! Of course, if we lived closer, I would offer to trade you work. You could look after my wife now and then, and I could take care of your weapons. _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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Only the first inch or so is bedded along with the tang. Sounds like I need to go back and bed the first 4 to 6 inches. I'll see what I can find in Prussian blue and if so? Maybe a very little judicious sanding taking off ever so much might be the trick. And yes, smacking things a bit too hard is a Marine Corps trait. If we were closer? I'd definitely do that! But not for the work man...coz you always take care of your own. Thanks for all your support. You have more knowledge in your little finger than I could ever have about firearms. "My rifle is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life...." Brings back many great memories... 'I pledge allegiance to the flag of the United States of America and to the republic for which it stands, one nation under God, indivisable, with liberty and justice for all.' | |||
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FWIW fibreglass/GRP is comparatively low in stiffness. You'd do better with carbon fibre, perhaps in the form of arrow shafts as stringers, anchored well front and rear (ie at the magwell recoil lug area and at the forend tip). As has been mentioned carbon fibre has several times the stiffness/weight of aluminium, walnut or steel (all of which are about the same on this measure) and far better still than fibreglass. | |||
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I shoot a lot of rifle off bipods I have had to stiffen lots of stocks. I use brownnells accuglass gel I drill holes to lock it in place. I even place some coat hanger wire in a couple to stiffen them enough so they wouldn't flex shooting off the bipod. I glass bed the action and the frist 3 inchs of the barrel and free float the rest. To test them I put the bi pod on get into a good soild prone position and have some one run some paper under the barrel and see if they flex and touch. If they don't they are good to go If the do I open up the barrel channel and if I have to I stiffen them. | |||
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I have a M70 375 which was not grouping as well or consistently as I felt it should to shoot a crocodile as precisely as this requires. Hill Country Rifle Company did their accuracy work on the factory "Tupperware" stock which did and does have a flexible forend. Neither I nor any normally porportioned person can shoot while reaching so far forward that pressure can be applied to cause the forend to contact the barrel. So, do not worry about that aspect. The accuracy work was done, including pillar bedding, but HCR still had to try several factory loads to get the desired result, which turned out to be Federal 300 gr. TSX. They were very professional about this. There are a lot of variables to rifle accuracy. Stabilizing the action in the stock is a good start. Forend pressure at the last few inches is hard to apply so, to me, not much to be concerned about. | |||
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For repairing those plastic noodled forearms might I suggest ; Drilling two off center holes from the face of the forearm back into the bed area . In Diameter of your choice . Use an epoxy such as Devcon ,West systems and Carbon tube . It will fix that floppy puppy right up . http://www.goodwinds.com/goodw...rbon.pultrudedcarbon http://westsystem.com/ss/ http://www.devcon.com/ http://www.ellsworth.com/ITWDe...Tdx54CFSWlagodllz5qQ | |||
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