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The new thread about the Farquharson action reproduction got me thinking about custom falling blocks. What would be your favorite falling block action to build a custom hunting rifle one? Dakota 10, Ruger No1, Hagn, Hall, high wall, low wall, etc. Does anyone have any experience with the side-lever Hall action?. Wes | ||
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If money were no object, I'd definitely go with the Hagn. Shoot, I'd just commission Ralf Martini at Martini-Hagn to build one. | |||
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i built one on a ruger #3. wenig gun stocks cuts a laminated stock for it that requires very little fitting. i used douglas xx air-guaged 24",kepplinger single-set trigger and moyer quick hammer. the caliber is 250/3000 AI. i have never been more pleased with a project. | |||
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That sounds really nice, can you post a picture of it? | |||
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For just the shear balance of the action and the many variants that can suit any situation, I would have to pick a Highwall. I have picked a Highwall. It's my second favorite action after the Sharps, which I also have but the Sharps (1874 model) does not have the proportions and flexability of the Highwall, it's just a simpler, meaner, tougher gun with a lot more history. The answer depends on your purpose, and w/o knowing that, the Highwall is a good all around choice good for just about any occasion but NCOWS. Brent | |||
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Agree with Brent, Hiwall is the best. Most gunsmiths today are not aware that it has almost complete interchangeability of parts without hand fitting. Should however have the tangs shortened, a block put between them, and a through stock bolt installed. If you start with a coilspring action it is also possible to fit a forend hanger. | |||
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EEK! shorten the tangs? No don't! Why would you do this anyway? It precludes and correctly mounted tang sight and I can see nothing but downsides to this. The through-bolt issue is one that is debated endlessly and I think depends more on how you treat your tools and what cartridge you shoot, not to mention how the bolt operation is actually done. Not all through bolts are equally effective apparently (I claim no experience on these details). If you are going to beat the hell out of it on a pack horse or chamber it for a heavy cartridge, then, yes, the through bolt makes lots of sense. Otherwise, I think not. My Highwall is a .38-55 and has been around for 117 yrs now and it's still tight as a drum though used pretty hard. I think it's good for another 117 so long as I don't use it as a pry bar. The forearm hanger? I'd never do that. It's what makes a Ruger #1 so problematic. The way that the highwall benchshooters or Schuetzen or silhouette people set up the forearm is to releave it slightly from the overlapping action lip and receiver face. This can be done easily and w/o cosmetic damage. You may wish to bed the rest of the forearm to the barrel but the butt of the forearm should be free of the receiver if you want to have ultimate precision. Generally not needed for hunting rifles however. the flatsprings as supposed to be a hair faster hence they are more desirable than the coils. Parts can be had at anytime from Ballard Rifles in Cody WY. Another nice feature. Brent | |||
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Heck of a question to ask a guy who has 15 or so assorted Ruger No.s 1 & 3, several of them customs...<G> Perhaps surprisingly, if it was for all-around use including severe hunting conditions, I'd go with the flat-spring Hi-Wall. Simple, sturdy, relatively small, easy to assemble, disassemble. For a looker, I'd go with an Alexander-Henry or Farkie. For inexpensive, field-putzing, the Ruger For competition or impressing folks at the range, the Ugly Gun (The Miller) For nostaligia, any one of a Rolling Block, Ballard, or Martini. (Yeh, I know these aren't really falling blocks...) For....well, guess that's enough waffling...<G> AC | |||
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I agree with Mr. Phillips. The Hagn if money is no object. Also maybe an original Farq at the high end. Hi Walls are nice too, especially the Ballard repro. IMO the Ruger is by far the best for the money, and a great looking action too. Hagn & Martini: | |||
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Riedl! Is there anything else? Cheers Mark Riedl | |||
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Picture? | |||
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For a strong action, the Meacham high wall, with the inertia firing pin option, appears to be best, in my estimation. For a target gun, or for short range hunting, the modern Ballard is sweet. I finally handled one last week, and I WANT one. | |||
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Mark - Are you related to the California Riedl who built those actions? A friend of mine and I have 5 of them here in this Oregon 'burg'...he three and me two. His are the 458 Norma Mag (much bigger case than a .458 Win), .300 Wby, and 460 WBY. Mine are .220 Swift and .22-250. He keeps trying to buy mine, and I try to buy his. I'd love to find one in the mid-calibers, like a .30-40 Krag, a .280 Remmie, or something of that ilk...even a.338 Winnie or .340 WBY. We love 'em too, but where does a guy find any more these days? Best wishes, AC | |||
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Brent, a through bolt can be fitted to a Hiwall without shortening the tangs if you want to use a tang sight. A through bolt stiffens up the action/stock juncture - it is why Ballards were so successful for so long in smallbore match shooting and HiWalls were not. As to a forend hanger,you want to free float a barrel in any rifle of any kind if you possibly can to relieve it of variations in barrel pressure caused by holding or resting the forend in different places, and of course if you shoot with a sling. In many cases ultimate grouping ability comes with some kind of forend pressure on the barrel, we know this, but consistent zero is much more important. I would rather have a rifle that shot into 2" from any position than one that did 1/2" from the bench but was all over the lot in field shooting. | |||
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WESR, If the rifle is for big game hunting then I would favor an action with an ejector to speed reloading. Further having to cock a hammer in cold weather is not as easy as pushing off a tang safety. Thus for the price the Ruger is obvious. However for a varmint rifle other features become more important. I happen to have a Floyd Butler High Wall that is outstanding in it's reliablity and performance. It has a heavy barrel and the forend is bedded tight to the barrel. This works and is proven. For target or Schuetzen shooting lock time becomes important. Here I have done well with the Hepburn but the AYDT is much faster. So would a Sharps. I have not seen some of the newer actions so if they are better or more available then I yeild on that. To answer your question for big game I would use a Ruger and have the hammer lightened, the spring changed and if it were a new one the trigger replaced. I would free float the Alex Henry forend myself and if that did not work then shim the hangar. Pick one that you like and make it work. | |||
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I'll be the oddball and say Dakota #10. In reality when I get around to getting a single shot it'll be a Ruger #1 due to cost, but if that wasn't an issue, I really like the looks of the Dakota. | |||
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Quote: You'll have ask Harry Pope about that when you see him in the next world. He certainly preferred Highwalls to Ballards and his shooting was none too shabby. But yes, a through bolt is helpful, esp. in the heavier cartridges for the highwall. The forearm hanger I have never seen on any highwall, including some of the best work of George Schoyen and Pope. Brent | |||
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I will stick with my Griffin-Fraser side lever action. | |||
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I had a Riedl in .243win. Interesting action. Maybe with todays improvement in castings it could be reintroduced at a reasonable price. Just redesign the safety and a hammer block. My thoughts only. | |||
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Huntingcat, I had never seen or heard of your Griffin-Fraser action, but a quick web-search pulled up a picture. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any information regarding the gorgeous action. I would love to hear more about these. Where can they be obtained and at approximately what cost? The action looks absolutely beautiful; much better looking than the Hall sidelever action. Thanks. Wes | |||
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WERS, I had the following done to one of my Ruger #1's. Pac-Nor 21 1/2 inch stainless select match barrel ( 6mm) , speed lock the hammer, wolfe springs, Kepplinger single set trigger, hanger modifiction, used the factory stock, topped with a Leupold 4 X 14. Since I am not a stainless fan, (looks) I had the barrel "blued". It's some kind of a bluing process, & has held up pretty good. I use this rifle for the majority of my deer hunting. I don't abuse the rifle, but I sure use it. To let you know, as my wife says "some times you are not all right". I had bought an Aluma aluminum gun case. Over all lenght outside is 38 3/4 , & inside is 37 1/2 inches. Since I had the case, I had the gunsmith shorten the barrel to 21 1/2 inches to fit in the case. It's real handy for tree stand hunting, & also for in the woods. Just love to shoot this rifle. At a local gun show a few yrs ago, there was a Hagn, that a guy wanted $2800. If I had the $$$$ at the time I would have bought it. It sure was a well balanced , trim, sweet little rifle. Haven't seem one since, but if $$$$ was no object, I would give serious thought on buying one. | |||
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You won't see or hear a whole lot about huntingcat's action in the marketplace because he has a full time job that pays way more than gunsmithing/manufacturing. It's sort of a shame because he builds them for the challenge and joy of the work and when this lot he is building is done there may or may not be more. It's a truly unique and beatiful piece of work and if I could have bought two or three I would have. Just my 2 cents. | |||
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