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I’ve got a sporterized 91 Argentine that I picked up years ago. It’s my cast bullet gun and it’s a handy little rifle. I’ve had the bolt handle replaced and love the looks of it. My next quest is to improve the trigger pull. Any suggestions? Only two options I can find are Timney and Huber. Shoot Safe, Mike NRA Endowment Member | ||
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I've had a Timney on mine for decades and it has worked flawlessly. | |||
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Was looking at the comment on the Timney and one poster noted he had to drill and tap a hole in order for it to work. I’ve used Timney’s before on 98 actions and never had any issues with fit. Comment listed below… “If it is an 1891 model with the single column magazine that protrudes below the stock line, no. The 1891 Timney trigger requires two holes to be drilled and tapped in the bottom of the receiver to mount the trigger.” Shoot Safe, Mike NRA Endowment Member | |||
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I've had a Timney M98 Sportsman trigger on my Oberndorf Mauser Sporter since the early 80's. It breaks like glass and I have never had to touch it since originally fitting and adjusting to the pull I wanted. The Timney triggers for the Mausers are now called the Featherweight and I seem to recall reading sometime back that users didn't think they were as good as the earlier models. Maybe it was here on AR there was some discussion about it. | |||
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Polish the sear faces and install a lighter trigger spring. | |||
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Won't do much if a two stage trigger, a Timney is a perfect single stage replacement. | |||
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Been done that way for a hundred years. Outlined in most all gunsmith texts. I've done several. Two stage has nothing to do with it. Friction and static spring tension are the keys. Easy to get a safe, smooth pull around 3 lbs.
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What I noticed is that the lever is cast and is wider. Drawback? Seems to work fine, justg looks like...well..cast ! and it 's too wide to fit the guard opening. How's that for enineering? | |||
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While, as above, back in the 60s I did have that Timney installed in my '91, if I were to want a nice '91 trigger today I'd just re-work the original two-stage trigger to a fine second-stage let off like Bobster mentioned. There's absolutely nothing wrong with a (good) two-stage trigger. | |||
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Last week I installed a Timney on a Rem 700. The client provided the trigger. What a piece of junk! The bolt release was paper thin! And not like previous production. They're cutting costs, using what I'd call inferior materials, riding on their name. Nothing wrong with profit, It makes the world go round. But ya' gotta' supply a quality product. Quality has sharply gone down hill IMO. Dressels is marketing a trigger for the '98 that's reminiscent of Win 70 design. But your question is about the Mauser '91. | |||
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There has been threads on AR about removing, or taking up, the first stage on Mauser two stage triggers and then of course lightening and smoothening the second stage. Soldering or chemical welding a small block of steel does the job of taking up the first stage. In my case with my Oberndorf Type A Mauser I didn't want to make any modifications to the original two stage trigger and the Timney Sportsman M98 was just a simple change over to give a fully adjustable single stage trigger like I have on all rifles I use. I still have the original Oberndorf trigger which a future owner may want to change back to. The OP, although asking for suggestions, seemed to be looking for an after market trigger hence my reply along those lines. | |||
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OP said:
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there is a third option AK-47 The only Communist Idea that Liberals don't like. | |||
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Most of my Mausers have either an older Bold trigger or Timney. But I agree. With a little careful stoning a two stage works just fine. All I do to them is polish the face and level off the top until it is nice and crisp. AK-47 The only Communist Idea that Liberals don't like. | |||
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I build a lot of 91 Mausers; they are smoother than any 98 ever was. I also have a lot of 98s. I use only the two stage military trigger. They do not pose any disadvantage to me because I train on them and learn how to use them. I never polish them; all the 123 year old triggers I get are already polished well. Customers, however, all want Timneys, which I fit all the time. They work well. | |||
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I like the military 2 stage trigger, both for dependability and simplicity. Plus I don’t want to spend $150-200 on a $250 rifle. My issue is the long second stage heavy pull. I’ll look into polishing the surfaces ever so slightly. Shoot Safe, Mike NRA Endowment Member | |||
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Make sure your polishing keeps the surfaces perfectly flat. Use a trigger pull gauge to determine how much static spring tension you need to overcome by pulling the trigger with the bolt out. Some springs are so strong it can take 6 or more pounds of force to overcome the second stage. This is where a lighter spring comes in. You need a spring strong enough to reset the trigger if you partially pull the trigger (with bolt in). You often can get by cutting a coil or two off the military spring.
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