I know you can, pretty simply, but I'm not exxactly ultra mechanically inclined. Iw oudl like a .223, and right now I have a 7mm Rem. Mag. Here's my questions:

To switch between these, what tools do I need?

What parts do I need for the gun?

What is the step-by-step process?

What kind of accuracy can I expect?

People on this forum have been real helpful in the past, thanks for any replies.

Man I butchered the words, *I would like a .223* not Iw oudl.

Plenty of information here: http://www.savageshooters.com/

S40

Gunsmithing forum comes through again! Quickly too!

Or is this not possible? Wouldn't I need a short action for .223?

Also are there many "kits" available? I found a .458 Win Mag kit, but I don't need one of those.

It would take a lot of work to go from a magnum to such a small round. After you do the basic savage barrel swap you would also need a new bolt or to have a gunsmith weld a new bolt head onto your bolt body. Then there will be a lot of work getting the thing to feed rounds from the magazine, if you can get the magazine to hold those tiny 223 rem rounds to begin with. I bet you'll have to get a new magazine box. For the headache and money I would take your 7mm mag down to the gunshop and trade it for a 223. You'll come out ahead in the end, with less investment. or pick a magnum caliber you want to switch it to.

Just my opinion there are others here with much more experience than I. But I did assist in a 300 win mag to 375 h&h mag switch. That was easy but he still ended up having more money wrapped up in that rifle than I paid for my 375 h&h.

quote:

After you do the basic savage barrel swap you would also need a new bolt or to have a gunsmith weld a new bolt head onto your bolt body.

the savage bolt head is seperate from the bolt body- to change bolt faces, you just pin the correct size head on.

This site can set you up.. it is not anywhere near as intense as mentioned above...

http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/Barrels.html

even on a long action, like the 7 Mag, you can make a conversion to a 223...

this site tells ya how, and barrels are available from mulitple sources.. not just these folks...

but they are a source of parts and supplies and offer great barrels...

i would say take the 7mm and trade for the 223 just my 2 cents

or buy a new stevens 200 in 223 for $260

For what it's worth , in November, one of my mod.110's was a 416 Taylor and now for the winter it is a 223 rem. It only takes a couple min.s to change out the bolt head and I use a single shot follower in the magazine. Works for me. I'm planning on getting a Stevens 200 in 308 this coming year and that would give me a more apropriate short action for the caliber swap.

Ok, I thought all I needed to do was change the barrel and bolt head. It will be a single shot though? I don't care really, I wouldn't use it where I needed more than 1 shell. I could switch to a new .223, but I really like my 7mm and use it for deer along with my 45-70, pretty good duo out of a treestand for short and long range. The .223 would be for cheap shooting at targts and varmints.

the 260 for a stevens 200 seems more logical to me and probally not much extra then swap

I would suggest you get an entire bolt assembly with the 223 size bolt head. It would be about $50 more but would would just need to swap bolts when you switch barrels.

Be sure to mark the barrel you are removing so that when you do put it back on, you screw it back in to exactly the same position and maintain proper headspace. You need to do this for all barrels that will be put back on.

To headspace new barrels, I use a full length resized case (from my resizing die) as a headspace gauge. I screw in the barrel on the case until i get firm resistance then screw the barrel back 2-3 thousandths of an inch. To check I then put a 5 thousandths shim between the case ande the bolt head to confirm that the bolt won't close, or it takes extreme pressure to close it. This method has always worked well for me, and for wildcat catridges I trust it more than using a standard headspace gauge.

If you don't clearly understand how to calculate the amount of turn you need on the barrel to achieve the 2-3 thousandths headspace difference you should not attempt this method. Use gauges or take it to a 'smith. Improper headspace can get you hurt or killed.

I thought Savages use the nut to do headspace?

All the lock nut does is "lock" the barrel in the spot that you have screwed it to. You MUST screw the barrel into the receiver the proper amount, THEN tighten down on the lock nut to hold the barrel at this spot.

Unless you use some means of screwing the barrel in the proper distance (such as headspace gauges or the method I described earlier), you will either screw it in too far, and not be able to chamber a cartridge, or not have it screwed in far enough and have excessive headspace - which will cause the brass cartridge case to rupture when fired and expose you and anyone around you to injury or possibly death.

For a first time project, I believe you should go ahead and get a set of go and no-go headspace gauges. You will have confidence when you complete the job that the headspace is proper. You can resue them when you switch again or sell them on ebay. I believe Midway sells them.