I just got a Timney trigger and installed it and the bolt won't open after dry firing. Timney's teck guy said the problem is that the cocking piece needs to be the one with the straight bottom; not the one with the shallow V. Before I send the trigger back and go to plan B I thought I'd try to find the straight cocking piece.

Any ideas? The only source I could find on the net is out of stock.

Thanks.

I solved that problem on a couple of my 09's by using a Dremel tool to cut a narrow groove through the middle of the bottom segments of the cocking piece and simply glass bedding a thin piece of steel into the groove at the same height to keep the trigger from rebounding into the "V" notch during the cycling of the bolt. It may not be the most elegant solution, but it is simple and works very well.

I can do that!- great idea; thanks.

Get a piece of steel keystock and fashion a fill piece. Soft solder it in with silver bearing solder.

quote:

Originally posted by jerrymontgomery:
I just got a Timney trigger and installed it and the bolt won't open after dry firing. Timney's teck guy said the problem is that the cocking piece needs to be the one with the straight bottom; not the one with the shallow V. Before I send the trigger back and go to plan B I thought I'd try to find the straight cocking piece.

Any ideas? The only source I could find on the net is out of stock.

Thanks.

Yup. Woodruff key milled or filed to a V to fit the slot and then soft solder it in and file it smooth. It's been done to death. Now days I'm to lazy, I just go to WGP and buy a Parker Hale cocking piece. It's also cheaper for my customers that way. Time is money.

I just build the trigger sear up with a dob of weld, it doesn't need much at all, maybe 2mm from memory. You can get an idea of how much just eyeballing through the inspection hole.
Flat bottoming the cocking piece is going overboard IMHO.
These days I use Recknagel, they work with no mods.

Speerchucker- I'd be happy to buy one, but I just looked at the ones on Numrich and they all seem to be the V'd type. Do you have a part #?

WGP = http://www.westerngunparts.com/index.html

quote:

Originally posted by ramrod340:
WGP = http://www.westerngunparts.com/index.html

Email these guys. They probably have one.

Western Gun Parts


18124 - 107 Ave NW, Edmonton, Alberta, T5S 1K5


Phone (780) 489-5711 | Fax (780) 489-5717

Toll Free Fax 1-888-489-5717 North America Only

Email: wgp@westerngunparts.com

Forgot to mention, Timney say they can supply a high sear which would do the same thing as I suggested. Never bothered to chase one up, it's a 5 minute fix with a TIG.
I know not every one has one though.
The best thing is you can use your original cocking piece rather than trying to fit a potential POS.

I pu Timney's in most of my Mausers and have never had a problem with the original cocking piece., I use the "Sportsman model" not the featherweight, Therein lies your problem.

Jim

Not wanting to sound like an azzeloh, even though I am one.

The problem Duane is that the kiddies don't read the instructions when they order the parts. Timney makes two Mauser triggers. One for the military Mauser sears and one for the commercial Mauser sears. The difference is in the cocking piece which is prominently displayed on their instructions. Which no one reads. Sorry but that's the way it is !

I think you guys got it figured out; I had gotten the featherweight trigger because of the safety, altho I DID tell the folks at Timney what it was going on. I think what I'll do is have a mod 70-type safety put on it and re-order the trigger. I'm in no hurry; I just got the wood for the stock and won't start on that until this Fall when I finish a boat tooling project that I'm working on.

Thanks for your help!

Speerchucker, I think you will find that the 98K trigger has a different blade to fit in the smaller trigger guard bow.
That's the only difference between the two that I am aware of regardless of Featherweight/Sportsman.
Gerry, good idea to go with the Mod 70 safety but I would stick with the Featherweight.
The Sportsman trigger overcomes the problem mentioned earlier buy using a slotted sear that allows it to move back and down on cocking to disengage.
The Featherweight needs a taller sear or a flatter C/P to hold the sear down and out of engagement on firing. Not always but I have struck it from time to time.

quote:

Originally posted by metal:
Speerchucker, I think you will find that the 98K trigger has a different blade to fit in the smaller trigger guard bow.
That's the only difference between the two that I am aware of regardless of Featherweight/Sportsman.
Gerry, good idea to go with the Mod 70 safety but I would stick with the Featherweight.
The Sportsman trigger overcomes the problem mentioned earlier buy using a slotted sear that allows it to move back and down on cocking to disengage.
The Featherweight needs a taller sear or a flatter C/P to hold the sear down and out of engagement on firing. Not always but I have struck it from time to time.

The difference in the two guns is part #10 in the drawings, the cocking piece. The featherweight has the V on the bottom. The commercial has a flat bottom.

The difference in the triggers is part #8 in the drawing. In the featherweight the sear has a large, flat top and if memory serves (I could be wrong on this I don't have one in front of me) that sear MAY have an elongated slot in its toggle pin hole that allows it to move forward and backward a bit so that the main sear can fall off the trigger sear after firing and allow the V in the cocking piece to bounce over it.

The main sear in the sportsman has a simple hook type sear.

One of the triggers is ALMOST universal and will usually work in either sex.(MOST OF THE TIME) The other is specific to the cocking piece it was designed for but I just can't remember which way it goes now.

ADD NOTE: Now that I think about it I think that adding the commercial, flat bottomed sear will make the gun function with either trigger.

The Feather wait trigger will work in 90% of the guns no matter which sear it has. But only 90% of the time. I THINK !

Best to check with the guys on the Mauser Central forum. Those guys are lost in an 1800s time warp and and can spew out Mauser jargon and facts like camels spit out slobber.

Actually, now that I think of it, Billy Leeper should know this off the top of his head but he's probably out playing with his motorbike toys this time of year.

quote:

ADD NOTE: Now that I think about it I think that adding the commercial, flat bottomed sear will make the gun function with either trigger

That is what my Swiss cheese mind remembers.

I used to simply swap out #10 from the start and not worry about it. Then MKX tossed in that speed lock crap. Opened a new can of worms.

I agree with Jim Kobe, the Featherweight triggers always had the issues; I don't remember Sportsman triggers ever giving me headaches.

I used to tinker a lot with Mausers, but would find myself trying to make a Win 70 out of it and then eventually just quit doing that and just mess around with pre 64 Win 70's in the first place.

Now that being said, hopefully my memory is clear on this. When I ran into that trouble with Timney triggers, rather than sending it back to Timney for a different sear, we would shim between the trigger housing and the receiver and the shim was held in place when the set screw was locked down. We would shim at the opposite end from the set screw.