I bought a used Redhawk 7.5" 44 mag. It was abused, with blueing damage, likely from rust removal. I got it cheap with a Leopold m8 scope.

I get light primer strikes pretty often, from 1 in 10 to 1/2 of the time. The trigger is pretty good, as far as I can tell (1st handgun), so I think the spring may have been changed to a lighter one, maybe too light.

My first attempt to fix was to clean it. I sprayed it with carbuerator cleaner, and got some red junk out of the firing pin hole, maybe rust? The gun fired more often after that. I found the disassembly instructions on the Ruger website, and broke it down as much as they told me how - removed the trigger guard, hammer, transfer bar.
I could not remove the firing pin. There is aa small slotted screw near the cylinder opening button, but it seamed to backseat, not come out. I sprayed more carb cleaner and reassembled, but I dont know if that little screw is in the same position, or if it was right to begin with.

I loaded up 150 more rounds and went to the range. It started off a litle worse with light primer strikes, got much better, and when I moved inside, it got much worse.

Is that little screw for disassembly or is it an adjustment? How can I remove and clean the firing pin? Can I soak the whole thing in Kerosene and blow it out with carb cleaner?

I want to be sure the problem is not dirt before I change springs.


Loads are seperated batches of Rem, PMC, and Federal brass. Win Primers. 200 grain lead rn or 200 g plated lead, 6.5-7.5g bullseye.

I am pretty new to loading for handguns, but I think the primers are seated to the bottom of the primer pocket. Most primers were seated with a Lee hand primer, but one batch was with the RCBS press. Both seemed to be the same in reliability.

Does a transfer bar revolver have less firing pin power than a bolt action rifle? I have not had any similar problems with my rifles, including a Handi rifle with a transfer bar.

Ruger Redhawks are notorious for having insufficient firing pin protrusion. Adding a lightened mainspring can exacerbate the condition and that could be what is happening with your firearm. I would have a good pistol smith measure the protrusion of you revolver and go from there. IIRC protrusion should be about 0.055". The fix could be as simple as refitting of the hammer nose or get involved to the point of replacing the firing pin. If it is under spec. I'd call Ruger explain the problem and give them a chance to fix the revolver to specification.

As for removing the firing pin youself it is more or less impossible for the hobbyist to do. It is held in place with a cross-pin through the frame that is near invisible. And it's almost impossible to remove with a hammer and punch due to the fact that it is an angled surface.

Those guns can take quite a bit of abuse for a D/A type gun. A used gun... I would change the hammer spring right off the bat and go from there.

I'll second what David said. I have a 45 Blackhawk that did the same thing as you describe (they have similar hammer mechs.).

Fireing pin protrusion was insufficient. I carefully dressed the hammer face with a file to get the needed protrusion (just put hammer in padded vise while still assembled). Works great now.

Are the springs "factory" or aftermarket?
I bought a used Redhawk that had the same problem and it was caused by weak replacement springs.

I don't know if the current spring is factory or aftermarket. I'd guess its aftermarket, since thr trigger pull is pretty light, and it doesn't always go bang.

What about soaking the gun in a bucket of solvent? Any harm? Any hope of getting the rest of the junk out of there?

Iam takeing a differant tact I belive it is the Winchester primers. I brought 5000 of them and get light firing pin strikes with them in a couple of differant pistols.

I went to CCI primers and the misfires went away.

If it was only one pistol I was having trouble with I would say it was the gun but after trying them in a few differant guns that I nver had trouble with before I am sure it is the primers.

quote:

Originally posted by bja105:
What about soaking the gun in a bucket of solvent? Any harm? Any hope of getting the rest of the junk out of there?

Not through soaking alone, it takes cleaning. If nothing else, find someone with an ultrasonic cleaner, remove the grips and drop it in. Blow it out and oil it.

I have a fair amout of expirence with the Redhawk, I also sat within spitting distance of the man who designed it and picked his brain quite a bit. (Over a year)

The main spring is the trigger spring too. Going to lighter spring will do nothing but cause missfires, it is very well balanced for it dual roll. The only way to get a great trigger pull on the Redhawk is to adjust the sear engagment surfaces.
If you've never done that I would not suggest the Redahwk to practice on. They can be touchy.

The screw you are refering to is the pivot pin for the thumb latch, there's no need to remove it.

If the firing pin needs to come out, its best to let the factory do it as they will match polish the new pin to the frame and reblue the gun for you.

Exersizing the firng pin while soaking it will tend to pump any junk that is in there out. Cock the hammer and use a stick to depress the firing pin a couple of hundred times, blow it out and resoak it several times during the exirsizing and the pocket should clean itself out.

Let me know if I can be any further assistance.
Rusty

Guys, thanks all for the help. I think I will first try soaking and exercising the pin like rusty marlin suggested, and probably get the spring kit my reloading supply guy has.

Of course, if the price is right, having the factory repair and reblue is a good idea.

Ok I got it fixed. I worked the firing pin in and out while spraying brake cleaner. That would have been easy with three hands.

I got a new main spring today and installed it, pretty easy.

I took it to the range and put 75 rounds through it with no failures. It definately takes more effort to cock it, but the single action trigger pull is crisp. I shot well today, even in double action.
I still might send it back for rebluing.

Thanksk for the help.

Excellant! Glad to hear you were succesful.