I am wondering if anyone has rebuilt say a timney or a blackburn or one of those types of triggers by replacing the "yanker" with a new one of your own making.

It seems to me that some of the custom rifles that are really first class will have the yanker sitting very close to and almost in perfect shape with the rear of the triggerguard as opposed to an out of the box Timney or Blackburn where the thing is out in the middle of nowhere.

I've done it once or twice for the reason you stated. The trigger comes out in the middle of the bottom metal and looks find of strange. I think I have a drawing of one that I installed on a Timney a few years ago.

Here's one interesting thing I encountered today, a Timney or Blackburn trigger won't work on a Polish Radom action. Interesting....

I havn't made a new 'yanker" but I have heated and reshaped several. I think some of the ones I have seen are much too close to the trigger guard. Looks great, but I don't want my finger to rest on the guard.

The military and some replacements are much to close to the middle. I try to shape them with the same curve as the rear of the guard, but leave a .15 or .2 inch gap. I don't know if it is a valid concern, but I worry that a small twig behind the trigger would cost a tropy with it closer.

Roger

I use to make 1 piece "yankers" for Remington 700's to eliminate the floating connector issues when used for competition. I even played with changing the location of the "hook" to enhance leverage to provide a lighter, more crisp pull, yet with a more substantial and fail safe connection between the sear and the lever.

It worked great, but I lacked the production machinery and finances necessary to pursue anything substantial and since it was beginning to encroach on the time I could spend building, trouble shooting and repairing customers guns, I had to drop it. Lucky for us, there are some fine replacements available for those who need that edge.

I use to modify other brand triggers to give them the benefit of an adjustable "hook". While the practical benefits behind the design were sound, the modifications were pretty intense, which quickly ran the price tag for the modification beyond the range for the average shooter and so I dropped that pursuit as well.

So yeah, anyone needing to alter the "yanker" to fit a particular design, the process should be fairly straight forward.

Was that “yankers†or “wankers?â€

quote:

Originally posted by Rick 0311:
Was that “yankers†or “wankers?â€

Some began as "yankers" and within 15 minutes, turned into "Wankers".

Are you refering to the K98 timney with the yanker farther foward than the fn98 timney?

GSP
I am referring to all Timneys and Blackburn. When you install them the yanker doesn't follow the contour of the rear of the triggerguard, and they are too far out in the middle of the guard.

I know the Model 70 triggers are quite easy to modify because one can cut the yanker off and reweld it further back after shaping it to the same shape as the rear of the triggerguard, but what I am really getting at is how to take these Timneys and Blackburns apart to remove the Yanker and replace it after it has been either replaced or reshaped (in the event on is building a really fine gun).

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
....what I am really getting at is how to take these Timneys and Blackburns apart to remove the Yanker and replace it after it has been either replaced or reshaped (in the event on is building a really fine gun).

Very Carefully.

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
GSP
I am referring to all Timneys and Blackburn. When you install them the yanker doesn't follow the contour of the rear of the triggerguard, and they are too far out in the middle of the guard.

I know the Model 70 triggers are quite easy to modify because one can cut the yanker off and reweld it further back after shaping it to the same shape as the rear of the triggerguard, but what I am really getting at is how to take these Timneys and Blackburns apart to remove the Yanker and replace it after it has been either replaced or reshaped (in the event on is building a really fine gun).

22wfs. What timney model are you taking about that are too far out in the middle of the guard?

I only have one timney on a 98 mauser. It is the timney model FN98 and the trigger lever is back against the rear of the FN trigger guard.

The Timney k98 model has the lever 1/4" forward more than the FN according to what brownells cat says.

Not sure what your refering to unless your buying the k98 model. Or maybe your just trying to realy conture the lever to a paticular gaurd.

All I have are the FN bottom metals . Are the other bottom metals like blackburn with larger guards bows?

Rick