Hello Guys

I have a BSA Hunter .222 action that I am having rebarreled, again to 222 Rem, in a hunting weight contour (based on Hart #4). The BSA action has an 1 and 1/8th thread, and the standard barrel shoulder is 1.332". Some smiths here will fit 1.25" diameter barrels, but they all say it has to be done with a "tight thread" and that the shoulder is pretty scant.

One guy has in stock a very good quality, cut rifled .224 blank, of the twist I require, but it is only 1" diameter. He has suggested that he machine up a "bush" to fit the barrel to the action. The bush will extend forward of what would normally be the reinforce, with the barrel fitted through it.

This sounds like a good idea to me, as it saves waiting months for a barrel, and I get a good discount on a top quality barrel as it is surplus.

Can anyone see any "hooks" in this plan

Thanks

Since you have to thread the bushing, and the barrel the actual amount of labor will be more. The cost savings on the barrel will be eaten up in labor charges.

I think the 1.25" barrel will be fine in the 1 1/8" thread receiver. I would not make super tight or tapered threads. That might split the receiver. I would make the threads accoring to standard practices. If I felt I was not getting enough draw, or was nervious about the barrel coming out I might use some loctite or 5 minuet epoxy on the last part of the threads and shoulder area. I don't think it will be necessary. I would put my money in the barrel blank, not the bushing labor.

I think that Scota4570 is on the right track. Remember that the bushing adds complexity to the
barrel to receiver match up. The bushing will introduce stress to the equation unless it has perfectly parallel surfaces. I am assuming you are working with a receiver that has been trued and the reciever face is perpendicular to the axis of the receiver threads. I'm talking too much. Skip the bushing, use the 1.25 barrel.

To me it sounds like that smith has a barrel he wants to get rid of! If it is not worth doing right then it is not worth doing. Seems like a half assed way of doing a barrel job and not something I would do in my shop! Re barrel with some thing like a Shilen match grade and while you are at it lap the lugs if needed and square the action. If you want accuracy pay attention to details and do not let some one talk you into cutting corners.

I don't know what make barrel would be 1 inch dia. with no taperto a larger size. I have never seen one, and do not believe that I have ever seen one in any of the cut rifeling cats. I would be leery of it for sure.

quote:

Skip the bushing, use the 1.25 barrel.

I agree

quote:

Originally posted by Tentman:
Hello Guys

Can anyone see any "hooks" in this plan

Thanks

Hi Tentman,

I would NEVER install a barrel without a shoulder! Tight threads, loctite, etc. is all taking a chance. If that barrel moves even a little then so does headspace..........

A precision bushing by a tool and die type machine man may be alright. I would do it only knowing the ability of the lathe man or do it myself. There is no room for error here.

Unfortunately the correct way is to get a barrel with a tendon large enough to give you at least the original dimension. This is the way I would go even though it is the most painful as well.

BigRx

I've never done this, but what about a
"barrel nut", a la Savage? I expect you could make that work ok... What say you?

PB

Hello Guys

Well the thing about this deal is that the smith is a top tradesman, and recognised as such by his peers here. I have friends who have dealt with him for years, and who unreservedly vouch for him.

He is passing off the barrel, but it is a top tube, a MAB cut rifled ultra match grade, one that would normally feature and place alongside a Tobler, True-flite or Krieger here. It is one inch diameter because it is from a batch made for rebarrelling M16 rifles for some special team. It is very much finer quality than I would normally be able to afford for a rifle of this type.

I don't have to many qualms about the final result myself, what I was hoping for was any technical tips you could pass on in respect to such a job, such as the shape and length of the reinforce (which will indeed be somewhat like a Savage nut, although threaded into the action as well as onto the barrel). The Bush will have a shoulder onto the action, and the barrel onto the bush.

Cheers

quote:

Originally posted by Tentman:



I don't have to many qualms about the final result myself, what I was hoping for was any technical tips you could pass on in respect to such a job, such as the shape and length of the reinforce (which will indeed be somewhat like a Savage nut, although threaded into the action as well as onto the barrel). The Bush will have a shoulder onto the action, and the barrel onto the bush.

Cheers

Tentman,

Trusting your craftsman is very important as is what cost he will pass onto you for the work done most correctly.

I will give you my opinion as to how it should be done to use as you see fit.

The bush should be a similar material as the replacement barrel with any difference being a slightly greater tensile strength of the bush.
As to length, I would find the spot on the original barrel that was 1.000" diameter and figure length to that point. (unless bush length becomes excessive) This will be a scant shoulder fit new barrel to bush as I would keep all the diameter I could on the one inch barrel (.850" minimum), but I would help this as explained below. I would machine the outside of the bush to incorporate the original barrel taper not only for looks but strength as well.

The bush should be made on one lathe setup. NO REAMER OR TAP SHOULD BE USED! Lathe bore the inside diameter and thread breech end internally approximately 1 1/4" deep with a fine pitch LATHE cut thread. Personally I would want around 32 to 36 threads per inch or .75mm pitch if done metric. Receiver threads, outside configuration, internal threads and bore, everything done on original setup for perfect concentricity with parting off piece (bush) being the last step.
New one inch barrel can be aligned in lathe to centerline of bore. The new fit should be machined very tight but not press to bushing ID.
The breech end threads (to bush) again should be lathe cut with extreme care as to fit and LENGTH! I would have the thread turn with a strong hand or light wrench force with no clearence. I would also have the thread length impinge slightly sooner than the shoulder fit does. Maybe about .020" longitudinal length? Thus when tightened securely the bottoming threads will reinforce the scant shoulder mentioned earlier.
I would probably assemble with a Loctite not so much for non-turning but to FILL any very slight clearences internally.

Done as such you gun will be as fine as original and a great shooter. The small .222 head size helps warrant bushing the one inch diameter barrel.

Mind you, I am a fussy one trained in the old school of perfection so my thoughts may seem extreme to some... I can only say it will give you a job to be proud of! I hope this is of some help.

BigRx