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Anyone who can do it or recommend someone? I have corresponded with Ron Morse in the past, not sure it he is still here or not. The blank is already shaped and contoured, just needs to be TIGed on. I would like to do the prep and cleanup myself, just because I like to. But that is open to negotiation. Thanks, Todd | ||
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Todd, Ron is still around but doesnt post much. I saw a post from him about a week ago. Gunmaker might do the job for you. | |||
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David Christman did mine. Butch | |||
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Thank you for the suggestions. I will try contacting some of these gents. I was originally planning to do a double square bridge, but after seeing some pics from one of our other members, I think the rear single bridge will be a little snazzier. I am not planning to scope it anyway. I am going for the look of an original Oberndorf, preserving the stripper clip guide / hump. If I can figure out this new board, I will post some pics. Todd | |||
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Some pics of the action in question. Single square bridge: | |||
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Double square bridge: | |||
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Any thoughts? | |||
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those are not ready to weld on - they need more shaping. And the front bridge piece is too long. And the reciever needs to be prepped before welding. If you want to prep and clean up, then why don't you just weld them on yourself? If nothing else, why not have the person doing the rest of the metal work weld them on? Personally, I do not know anyone who would weld on blocks of steel you provide, and then ship it back to you rough. I would never do that in a million years. I would have exactly zero control over the finished product. | |||
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Marc, Haven't even started cleaning this receiver up. I would love to weld them on myself, if I had the skill and the equipment - but I don't. I wouldn't mind doing the prep and cleanup myself because it is a hobby that I enjoy immensely, however I realize that most welders would not like that for the reason you mentioned. Hence my flexibility in the matter. I agree, the front is too long. I have not seen any close up pics of a front square bridge recently, and can't remember what the ones I have seen in the past looked like. But is seems like there was some rounded receiver ring on either end of the square part. As far as 'the rest' of the metalwork beyond TIGing these on and doing the chamber reaming, I will be doing that - this would include all fine shaping with file and stone, polishing, installing sights, barrel bands, etc. Todd | |||
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but even the hand work is not done as they sit now. THe rear bridge does not fit up next to the charger hump. THey need bevels on the edges where the weld will go. By a TIG and start welding. The only way to learn and then you will have what you want. They don't cost that much. | |||
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Marc, RE: the rear bridge, would you square off the back side of the charger hump (where the bridge blank will butt up against it) by careful hand work with a file, or using a mill for precision? I can do pretty precise work with a file by just taking my time, however I did not want to do anything that the welder wouldn't like - and therefore would not touch. Todd | |||
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I would love to do it but Jeffe wont let me weld on receivers! Just joking guys!! Double Rifle Shooters Society | |||
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either way is as good as the other. I do it on the mill, but usually I am hogging off steel with the mill. For just that job alone, I would likely file it because it would be faster. And file a bevel on the contact edges of the bridge. You will get a good weld filling up the gap. I could not really tell from the pics, but the bases may be a little too far down on the action. The edges that hang down may need to be higher. But then that may can be handled when you bevel and weld, then clean them up. The overall shape is very pleasing, but how they look before the first coat of rust is what matters. I was 100% serious about you buying a TIG rig. I really do encourage you to buy one and learn how to drive it. You can be totally set up with new machine, first class auto darkening hood, 5 year lease on a bottle, TIG wire, and tungsten for under $2k. I had fits learning to TIG until I got my own. Then I used it for every misc. welding job I had until it became second nature. | |||
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ya got to that just before I did... TMG sure is getting different advice than you did. | |||
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Mississippian, Based on the pics you posted, I am sure you would do it well. I would let you try if not for the FFL issue. Marc, Thanks for the advice. I will work on it, and post more pics when I get there. The rear base is too high, on the SSBs I have seen, the top of the rear bridge is on the same height plane as the front ring apex. My plan, once I get the rear of the receiver shaped and the appropriate bevels on the blank, is to have the machinist / welder drill it for 6-48 screws with long heads. These will be countersunk so that the slots in the screw heads will be milled off with the excess height of the base, rendering them invisible. I may try the TIG someday - or maybe not, as my eyes make my $$$ these days and I can't afford to risk injuring them. I wear a full face shield for any kind of shop work to avoid projectiles. UV light is another story. Todd | |||
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TMG, Here is a good example of some square bridges on a mauser. http://www.deltagunshop.com/Accg2007.html | |||
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Could someone tell me where to locate those square bridge blanks? Thank you very much, Steve | |||
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