I think I am going to try my hand at rust bluing. Can anyone recommend a rust bluing solution? Also, if anyone would like to share any pointers or common pitfalls it would be much appreciated.

I've tried Gun Goddess Rust Blue solution from Jim Baiar on a hobby basis. It worked extremely well. It comes with a booklet that tells you quite a bit about bluing.

I remember many moons ago when I was onboard the USS Independence. We were spiffing up the interior of the ship for an upcoming visit by an Admiral. the Captain came on the intercom over and over and over with the same refrain, which was "good painting is 80% preparation and 20% application". I don't know what the percentages would be for rust bluing, but I can tell you from my hobby experience that absolute cleanliness and proper polishing will go a long ways towards a good job.

Check out this video on U-Tube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuP4m6L95K4

quote:

Originally posted by thecanadian:
I think I am going to try my hand at rust bluing. Can anyone recommend a rust bluing solution? Also, if anyone would like to share any pointers or common pitfalls it would be much appreciated.

www.rustblue.com

I manufacture 8 different formulas and can provide you with plans to build an economic steaming device. Check out my blog for tips and pitfalls.

Bob

I had no idea; tell us (me) more about the different formulas; I assume they produce different colors? I am always looking for new/old things to try.
Your vertical steaming idea is novel; that means I won't have to fire up my big water tanks any more.
Which of your various formulas gives the darkest blue?

Yes, each formula has it's own unique characteristics that produce subtle textural and color features. These were all developed from period armory formulas used for accelerated rust blueing. American, Swiss and Frontier Brown(when boiled or steamed) produce the darkest colors. American produces a shinier finish than Swiss. German and Swedish produce a nice blue/grey black that achieves a high lustre. French and British are real close as a medium shiney blue/black. American can be diluted 50:50 with distilled water, adding 2% by weight ethyl alcohol 95% and used to produce a bright black as found on high end English guns. Frontier Brown used without steaming and sealed with BLO produces a nice plum brown, black with steaming. Swiss is very aggressive and will color case hardened steels and some low chromium stainless when alternated with Frontier Brown.

I mix each bottle by hand per order. That assures customers receive fresh formula as the potency declines after mixing. Since these are accelerated rust blue formulas they require high humidity or a sweatbox to force things.
One bottle will do 20 or more long guns. This is because you only use the thinnest of coats and 3-4 passes get the job done. Check my blog for pics from a customer who blued his double with two passes in 5 hrs!

The steam pipe can double as a sweatbox. Then you just fire up the burner and turn it into a steamer. Using new components you can build a steamer for around $40. It only uses 2 quarts of water! I usually get a boil in 5 minutes and steam for 15. PM me your e-mail and I'll send you or anyone working instructions and plans for the steamer.

Bob

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
I had no idea; tell us (me) more about the different formulas; I assume they produce different colors? I am always looking for new/old things to try.
Your vertical steaming idea is novel; that means I won't have to fire up my big water tanks any more.
Which of your various formulas gives the darkest blue?

I use Bobsters rust blue solutions and I've had very good results. I prefer over Brownells brand rust blue.

Quality wise or otherwise what would be the difference in outcome using a Mark Lee no.1 or Herters Belgian Blue vs the typical rust blue solution?

PM sent. Thank you.

I just finished bluing a M1899 Savage using Bob's English formula and I couldn't be more pleased with the results. On top of that it was a pleasure dealing with him.