gents:

what does it mean when the safety goes from full safe to the middle position on a m70 classic with hardly any feel of resistance but from middle position to full fire and little tough?

second, when in full fire the bolt lift is a tad sticky. after firing the trigger the same thing but when rifle is in middle position the bolt lift is fine.

third, trigger pull is kinda heavy. are the triggers difficult to adjust?

thanks,

jeff

I am not a gunsmith, but I have 6 of those rifles.

1. from full fire to middle position is when you are doing all of the caming of the firing pin (you are stretching a spring). From middle position to 3rd position you are basically blocking the bolt (a pin move into the cocking piece to block the bolt.

2. Which trigger do you have. Is this a brand new Classic with the new trigger? Regardless, triggers really aren't something to mess with unless you really know what you are doing, and especially with the old style Model 70 trigger. Best to send it to someone who works on them. The reason being is that you have to preserve the proper sear angles.

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
I am not a gunsmith, but I have 6 of those rifles.

1. from full fire to middle position is when you are doing all of the caming of the firing pin (you are stretching a spring). From middle position to 3rd position you are basically blocking the bolt (a pin move into the cocking piece to block the bolt.

2. Which trigger do you have. Is this a brand new Classic with the new trigger? Regardless, triggers really aren't something to mess with unless you really know what you are doing, and especially with the old style Model 70 trigger. Best to send it to someone who works on them. The reason being is that you have to preserve the proper sear angles.

The old M70 trigger is the easiest trigger to adjust. I have found the odd rifle that has a rough spot on the bearing surface that engages the sear and may need some mild polishing / stoning. this can be tricky & should not be attempted unless you know what you are doing. But adjusting the screws and nuts is not a problem at all & any average high school kid can do it IMO. Once you are happy with the trigger adjustment, I recommend using a drop of Loktite to keep it stable.

22wrf,

it's a classic circa 1999 or thereabouts. I'll try to find someone in my area. figuring it's not a huge deal.

thanks naki.

I know there are a few of us here that probably sound like broken records... But in all seriousness talk to Mark Penrod about reworking your trigger. You'll be glad you did if you have him do the work.

I am just dealing on my 43rd Mod 70 rifle since my first in 1968 and I TOTALLY agree with 22wrf and DavidReed, send it to a real pro and have the trigger-safety interaction adjusted and timed. This, is NOT as simple as some may have you believe and there is another mod or two currently being done at Martini's to my sts Classic .338WM "beater".

This is to have the bolt handled welded at the little groove you can see on the bolt body surface and to have the notch for the cocking piece lock welded full and then re-cut deeper to actually function as the P-64s do. "Nit picking", well, no, not when you hunt BC, Alaska and the "Territories" where bear encounters are a frequent fact of life.

All of this, plus an examination of the extractor cut in the barrel breech to make certain the ends will not snag the belt on an H&H type case SHOULD be done and by someone like Mark Penrod, who KNOWS WTF he is about.

I detest "home" gunsmithing and have seen some fine pieces ruined by such hammerheads. I have adjusted a couple of my triggers, but, I then had them re-done when the safeties were smoothed and, again, suggest you do so as well.