the $&*@#$&*#$ Jeffery broke the #@$*&)(#&$# recoil lug off the ($*#@)(*$ barrel, and broke the (*@#$*(@# stock.

In fact, it broke the entire 1/2"x 5/8" high force (lowtemp) solder apart. looks like it had 65-75% contact

So, I'll need a tig welder, preferably in the houston area, that can tack this little "gem" back together....

I have a plan for the stock, recoil lug, and crossbolt to repair, as it wasn't AS bad as the first time.

jeffe

[ 11-24-2003, 21:08: Message edited by: Arock ]

No, No, No!!!!

TIG welding will warp the barrel, I do not care how much preaching the welder does about how good he is. A-Square ran water through the barrel while TIG welding the lugs on, but they still warped the barrels, I have measured over 0.040" barrel runout at the lug.

Barrel mount recoil lug will stay on if done properly:

Lug must be at least one inch long and nearly as wide as the barrel. (I put some draft on the front and sides of the lug so you can get the barreled action out of the stock after bedding) Drill and counterbore the lug for two 8-40 screws. I use fillister head, either Torx or Allen socket head. Tap the barrel for the screws. Do a dry fit, to be sure everything fits. Fit the lug to the barrel properly for a thin solder joint. Tin both the barrel and the lug, then use the screws to draw up tight while making a "sweat" joint. You want 100 per cent solder bond, it is easy to attain with proper solder techniques and fluxing. I use HighForce 44 with no problems.

<walks away whipped again>

Thanks John, i'll try it THAT way this time....

fudge, I wanted this problem to go away....

<where's my soldering for braindamaged recoils junkie's book>

jeffe

TIG warped barrels??? Better tell this to all the folks that make Contender and Encore barrels. Not sure I understand where this recoil lug is being installed, but is solder strong enough to withstand "shear" force as the joint will see in a recoil lug?

My understanding of how the contender barrels are done is that the weld is made first, then the barrel chambered. A weld in the area of what will become the chamber I would think would be essentially a non-issue compared to a weld halfway down a barrel.

Jeffe, sorry to hear about the meltdown. Must have been way exciting to take that shot! I'm glad it waited a week to let go. I think I could have secured a permanent flinch if that'd happened on my first shot of the 500. Hope you're okay. Assume that asking about welds and not emergency rooms is a good sign.

By the way, I christened the Whitworth on a spike at a friend's ranch near Canyon Lake this weekend. A Hornady 220 at about 2100 did the trick. Bob

Bob,
nah.. nuttin bad happened... point of impact went up 2 feet, I looked at it, the rec came back .1" or so... just enough for me to say

"well (*)(@*#)(@*#)($8@)(*)($&@)(*#&$%&*@#%(*&@#)%&@)*#&%*&"

I'll have it fixed in a week or so...

good news on the spike... the ole arkansas shim work out for ya, then!!!

jeffe

I wonder if a dovetail can be cut under barrel to accomodate a dovetail block with a screw to serve as a secondary lug. This way the dovetail is served as recoil shoulder and screw shearing can be minimized. Any thoughts on that? Thanks.

Jeff, have you seen that old Jack Lott article, The Bolt Action Stopper Stock. It's full of tips about bedding the big boomers. If you haven't I'll be glad to fax you a copy. Yep, the coke can shim worked like a charm. Thanks again. Bob

Ming,
I talked to larry, my old buddy that has forgotten more about smithing than i'll ever know... he asked the same question, as he does a slight dovetail on his 510 wells. DUH! should have asked him first, but that frequently winds up being the case.

Bob,
I've got the article... and did a pretty good job of knowing those things... the solder broke on the lug, which I expect is my fault...

Pictures in a week or so of the "solution"

jeffe