Can a sako style extractor be installed on this magnum bolt? If so what is the approximate cost?

The Remington extractor(when properly installed) will grip the most stubborn cartridge rim and tear it off. Additionally, once you mill out the bolt head for the Sako you have compromised a key safety feature. Namely the chamber seal the bolt nose forms.

The biggest problem with Rem 700 mags we see at the service center(past tense)is rough chambers that cause hard extraction. A quick chamber polish with 600 grit will eliminate this issue and the bolt will cycle like butter. Polish some cases and fire, then inspect. If you see grooves or hazing then you chamber needs polishing.

But to answer your question, yes it can be done but I have no clue as to the cost.

Years back I had a Sako extractor installed on my Remington 700 BDL 7mm magnum by Greg Tannel at Gretan rifles. You might contact him and see if can do it for you. https://www.gretanrifles.com/
He has done several projects for me and I'm very satisfied with his work.

Just looked at his website and this is posted;

We are NOT accepting any new Firearm or repair work at this time.
We apologize, your business is very important and appreciated. But our shop is overwhelmed. We will repost when we are taking work again.
Thank you for considering us! We are sorry for the inconvenience.

You might still contact him and see what he says. Good luck.

I have installed many Sako extractors on 700s. $175.
However, my policy is the same as his, at this point. Too much work. Seems skilled hands are getting more rare. Not that I have any skill.
Now, Bobster is right; the original 700 extractor is good. I know, two of you have had them fail.
One thing though; cutting for the SAko one does breach the safety breeching of the 700; the three rings of steel thing, which really does work. I've seen them blown, and it does hold the gas and fragments in. Just saying.
And I know what you are thinking; stop writing this crap on AR and get on the milling machine. And you would be right.

thanks for the feedback folks. I do appreciate your replies.

The problem today is that 700 extractors are getting to be as rare as hens teeth!

I don't like milling on that bolt but the mini 16 extractor is A much better choice than the sako imo. It actually held in place by a pin.....and has less chance of become shrapnel.

I've read of too many Sako failures- some catastrophic resulting in injury. Weak and unreliable under strong pressures. M16 is pinned in place, much more robust and reliable.

Just finished a .300 WSM where the customer had changed his mind from what was supposed to be a .260. Given that a new bolt was needed I went with a custom PTG body set up for a M-16 extractor.

For me, any new magnum bolts will have M16's.
If absolute reliability is critical, a conversion makes sense IMO.

Just my $.02

I,ve read about the Sako catastrophes in a 700, but know personally of one.Never again for me. The Sako is aligned with the bolt raceway when cocked. The extractor blows down the raceway.

Yep. The 700 bolt nose is mortised for the spring band extractor. The mortise thins the steel there substantially. It is ductile enough to expand in an over-pressure event to contact the barrel breech and seal the chamber. Ruins the bolt but may save your day.

quote:

Originally posted by butchlambert:
I,ve read about the Sako catastrophes in a 700, but know personally of one.Never again for me. The Sako is aligned with the bolt raceway when cocked. The extractor blows down the raceway.

But you never hear of a Sako failing. Must be that 700 owners don't know how to reload correctly.
I have disassembled two 700s that the owner blew up with pistol powder in a 243. Both at the same range session. He was an idiot. Locked the bolt on the first one, and proceeded to fire the second rifle. Same result. Bolt nose expanded as Bob said; held all the gas. Melted the brass cases.

Amazing how some things never change in discussions about rifles. This is exactly the same set of concerns, possible solutions, and the problems posed by "fixing" the extractor, that I had when I was a senior in high school. That was in 1977. Correction. 1973. Among the many things going is my memory.

These are in current production:

https://www.remarms.com/rifles...del-700-xcr-tactical

and the Lapuas have Sako style extractors. I would first see what Remington uses (not sure if its a Sako, M16, or some other extractor) and start there.

The big issue with Remington extractors that we have found, after servicing many hundreds of rifles, is improper fitting at the factory. The #1 problem is that the extractor was sprung when initially installed and either left sprung or an attempt was made to straighten. Thus being too sloppy or with no spring to snap into the extractor groove. The other is that the extractor fits too tight/binds in the mortise not allowing it to move properly. Before installing a new Rem extractor you need to polish both edges of the extractor band on a stone to make sure it is narrow enough. Also stone the edges so there are no burrs. Installed this way it should last a lifetime of normal use.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
But you never hear of a Sako failing. Must be that 700 owners don't know how to reload correctly.
I have disassembled two 700s that the owner blew up with pistol powder in a 243. Both at the same range session. He was an idiot. Locked the bolt on the first one, and proceeded to fire the second rifle. Same result. Bolt nose expanded as Bob said; held all the gas. Melted the brass cases.

The biggest screw up when replacing a rivet type Rem extractor is the idiot that hasn't the slightest clue how to properly BUCK the rivet of which there are 3 length options for the 3 breech faces.

hint-
A cartridge case pinched in vice jaws to hold the rivet head while attempting to BUCK the rivet shank is NOT the correct procedure.

Yes indeed. You need to acquire or make a hardened steel anvil notched for the boltface recess. It also needs to have a slight radius to match that of the inside. Make it long enough so that you can insert between the jaws of a heavy bench vise so that the tail contacts the slide bar. Any heavy steel tool can be used as a backer. You want steel to steel contact during the operation so there is no give. Remove the ejector. It will be in the way. If after setting the rivet the head protrudes such that it catches the rim of a cartridge it can be carefully dressed with a moto-tool. I put a steel shim under it to keep from marring the boltface. If you are careful you shouldn't need to. I often dry fit the rivet and if the head is a bit thick I thin it so it won't stand proud. The outside may need to be dressed too.

If you want the installation to look factory, pound the rivet with a ball pein hammer until you move metal forward on the bolt nose. Then use an angle grinder to blend the rivet into the bolt body. Making sure you create a nice flat with plenty of tool marks.

quote:

Originally posted by Dans40XC:
The biggest screw up when replacing a rivet type Rem extractor is the idiot that hasn't the slightest clue how to properly BUCK the rivet of which there are 3 length options for the 3 breech faces.

hint-
A cartridge case pinched in vice jaws to hold the rivet head while attempting to BUCK the rivet shank is NOT the correct procedure.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Bobster:
Yes indeed. You need to acquire or make a hardened steel anvil notched for the boltface recess. It also needs to have a slight radius to match that of the inside. Make it long enough so that you can insert between the jaws of a heavy bench vise so that the tail contacts the slide bar. Any heavy steel tool can be used as a backer. You want steel to steel contact during the operation so there is no give. Remove the ejector. It will be in the way. If after setting the rivet the head protrudes such that it catches the rim of a cartridge it can be carefully dressed with a moto-tool. I put a steel shim under it to keep from marring the boltface. If you are careful you shouldn't need to. I often dry fit the rivet and if the head is a bit thick I thin it so it won't stand proud. The outside may need to be dressed too.

If you want the installation to look factory, pound the rivet with a ball pein hammer until you move metal forward on the bolt nose. Then use an angle grinder to blend the rivet into the bolt body. Making sure you create a nice flat with plenty of tool marks.
Guess I've been doing it wrong all these years. I've been using a 3 corner file and then a sanding block and following the radius of the bolt body, not leaving a flat and tool marks!

Unless things have changed, this modification voids any warranty

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Unless things have changed, this modification voids any warranty

I do not own a 700.

I use Mauser and Mauser style actions.

Never had any type of extractor problems.

Hmmmm. Who wouda thought??

Betcha this generates at least 10 pages. Maybe another goat rope.

Of course it voids the warranty.
However, I and the US Army, use Rem 700s, without any modifications, with complete success. Not sure what that means.
I do know that Mausers will cause untold manner of jams if you try to load them directly into the chamber. Seen it many times; they are not designed to do so, unless modified. German tactical doctrine called for charger loading only.
Also, speaking only of the claw extractor feature; anyone know why that was invented? Not for the reasons you think; Mauser was completed happy with the push feed systems of the 89/91s. It was the Turks that wanted the so called CRF feature; not for improved extraction but to prevent untrained or poorly trained conscripts from jamming their action with two rounds. (Mauser was under exclusive production and development rights with Turkey then. )
Remember that even Germany didn't adopt that system for a decade after it was developed. And the British and Russians were happy with their extractors.
Those who are trained on how to correctly operate a bolt action rifle will not have problems with a "non CRF" system.
This will infuriate Mauser lovers.
And yes, I still have over 200 Mausers.

Well, since Remington went tits up, any warranty is a thing of the past. Everybody is on their own now.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Unless things have changed, this modification voids any warranty

I have put Sako extractors in a 700. Since I read about the death of a left handed shooter, shooting a right handed rifle with a 300 WSM overloaded (extractor blew back through his eye), I'm hesitant to use them. Factory Remington extractor is really good. If you have to bush or open the bolt face, then the M16 style gives marginally more safety. But I did see a pistol powder overload of a Remington clone, and the M16 style extractor blew out of the ejection port also.

I notice the factory Tikka rifles use a Sako extractor, and it has a clear path back out of the ejection port also. Not sure if the Sako itself is also open (3 lugs, so exractor might be trapped by a lug abutment; don't have one to look at). But anyway I don't think the modified Remington with a Sako extractor is any more dangerous than the Tikka. But I still won't shoot a right-handed one left-handed, or vice versa.

3 rings of steel was pretty good.