Use Talley crossbolts as they are longer than the A square and/or Brownells cross bolts. AS and Brownells are sometime short or require deep holes...

Also the jig as it comes from Brownells will not do the rear crossbolt, it has to be modified to do both properly...

I install the crossbolts, work them down with the wood and completely finish the stock, then I take them out carefully and have them engraved, color case hardened, blued or what ever..I then reinstall them and fill the holes with glass so as to leave no voids and put in the greased cross bolts rather snug, index them with holes going North and South, carefully wipe off any overflow glass, and let them cure.

I have no intention of ever taking them out but I could if I had to and they were stuck, I would apply a little heat on the bolt head only with a soldering iron and some patience, they would come right out, but inasmuch as I had applied release agent I doubt that they would stick....

always be sure the bolt head fits the spanner wrench before you do anything else....

would one of you gentleman mind explaining to me how the indexing works? You just tighten the sides alternately until it is tight and they are in line? And north south is the traditional alignment?

Roger, what do you charge to do some every day type engraving on them?

Red

Red:



You fit the bolts so they tighten up lined up with the bore(indexed). I would call that east and west, though.



I charge 25 dollars for both sides of one crossbolt.

Roger

It looks great I will have to get some parts done by you for my next project.

Cheers,

Andr�

How much for a pattern like the one on that bolt knob Roger?

50.00 per panel if I can do the layout before the bolt handle is attached to bolt body. 60.00 if I have to work with an existing bolt.

Roger, great looking bolt. I need to call if nothing else than to see what is going on. The "other" work is keeping me waaay too busy. Have something I need to get shipped to Red also that is overdue. As Mel Brooks said in Blazing Saddles with the bountiful bimbo on his lap in the two piece, "work, work, work, work". I just dont the company he gets to keep.

Chic, no problem on my end, plenty busy meself. THis checkering stuff is way harder than you make it look!!! every time I think I have it down I slip. Or like the other day, I had what I thought were some real good lines going and then all of a sudden I checked it with the diamond template and I had strayed off somewhere. Damnit!!! running out of wood too, time to sand things down and refinish. Oh, I also did a layout the other day, on the grip. thought I did a real find job too, even cut the borders in freehand using that little v-gouge thing, then screwed up laying out the master lines.

I send a stock off (supposed to be today) tomorrow to have duplicated onto a pattern blank so I can start on the shaping. at least with this if I mess up I can add bondo!!

Red

This is what I do and it has worked out for me. I normally locate the cross bolts so the front is just barely behind the recoil lug. I do this in the mill with the stock levelled up. I use a short piece of 5/16 threaded rod that is screwed into the "tapped hole" in the stock. The stock also has been counterbored with a 1/2" end mill on each side. The rod has been threaded on each end to accept a flat head allen screw. The whole works is assembled with acraglas and the counterbore is filled with plugs of Ebony that I have turned in the lathe to a close fit. Not much left to do except tak it all down flush. I normally do this when the stock is in the Block and has been milled down to a close size on the sides.

Jim