Ok, I have read all the instructions for the Acraglas,
But i still have a few questions.
1 What to leave for a stop point? one fourm i read
said to place two strips masking tape across the barrel chanel 2'' before the recoil lug and that would give it
enough clearance down the channel and hight for the glass.

2 how much is enough wood to remove?
3 Why would you bed the barrel chanel the whole way?
any one do this?
4 Inletting screws do i need them or can i use the action screws, how do you keep the glass from getting into
the action screw holes while installing the action?
5 And what about the floor plate how many bed this.
Dont want to sound stupid just want to do a good job!

Any good web sites for this? Thanks! Reloaderlen

It isnt rocket science... Or is it?



What kind of rifle are you gonna bed. All depends on what your doing. New Model 70,Mauser, Remington, a Cannon on a pirate ship ?

I don't know any sites that show pictures....I have some books that have pictures of the details......I use clay to fill the holes and make a "dam" for the end of the bedding.....be sure to "release agent" coat the inside of the holes and the clay and the action screws....I use the standard action screws for my bedding .....I bed the bottom metal after the action bedding is done and now I usually pillar bed also......I like to remove at least 1/8 inch of the wood and sometimes more according to the amount of action/stock contact available and I use a drill to make small-SHALLOW dimples in the glass area to add surface area....they have to be shallow or they will not fill up...........after you coat everything with release agent....let it dry and COAT a SECOND time......just in case....esp. the screw and thread area .....most guns shoot better with a support pad at the action/barrel joint and free floating the barrel the rest of the way to the end of the stock......every once and a while you will find a barrel that prefers a support-pressure pad at the end of the forearm.......but seldom one that needs/likes a full forearm bedding job....this puts pressures from a sling, hand hold and rest contact aganist the barrel and USUALLY doesn't help accuracy and consistant point of impact......hth..good luck and good shooting!

reloader len,
Try this link for info. http://riflestocks.tripod.com/bedding.html. I haven't done one myself yet, although I do hope to have go early next year. I found this site when I was searching for help.

HTH

I sure had had my share of failures.
The first one pee'd resin all over my pants, my chair, the rug, the stock, and did not glass under the action, but managed to glue the action to the stock.


I have clay, but don't use it for dams. I use foam rubber and duct tape.

Now I use Devcon Stell Putty.
It takes overnight to set up.
It costs 10 times or 100 times as much as Bondo from Home Depot, but sets up much slower.


They are all the same hardness, despite the additives and brands. I think it is 20 ksi in compression, or something like that.

I try to do pillar bedding at the same time or the next day, while working on the same gun.
I try to get the scope mount glassed to the receiver about the same time too.

I have bought allot of old beat up rifles that the glass is all cracked and falling out. I like to relieve deep for deep glass.
I take the recoil cross bolt out of VZ24s and put tape over the holes on the side. Then I fill that volume with glass bedding. The reason I do this is becuase the recoil lug on the reciever is steel and the cross bolt is steel, and to glass them together makes a glass coating on the cross bolt that is as thin as .001", and thats no good.