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Stock sanding by the pros
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I'm about to start on my next stocking project (1885 Win Special Single Shot). But after the last time, I have a question for some of you professional and near-professional stockers. How do you sand that area directly behind the cheek piece. I am not happy with the way I've done it. I do not get the smoothness I want and I can easily create a rise in elevation since I can't really sand with the grain, right up to the precise edge of the cheek-piece shadow line.

How do you sand and polish that last couple of millimeters? I see this as a major way of seperating the good from the ugly, the pros from the hacks, and me from what I want. Any help is appreciated.

Brent
 
Posts: 2257 | Location: Where I've bought resident tags:MN, WI, IL, MI, KS, GA, AZ, IA | Registered: 30 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Brent:

This really isn't a problem. Get one of those rubber sand paper backers (made by 3M I believe). Install your paper, turn the backer sideways so there isn't any sandpaper bumping into the shadow line and sand with the grain.

Roger
 
Posts: 1633 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Scrollcutter's quite right.. I use sanding forms which aer simply various shaped pieces of rubber used as sanding backers to effect this area. Also to save a bit of time, don't allow defects to accumulate in this area. I flatten this area of a stock with a fine cut file with the edges safed. Use the widest you can find and it'll help flatten the area and smooth it conciderably, minimizing the sanding time needed...
 
Posts: 49 | Location: central Missouri | Registered: 23 June 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks guys, the file suggestion is particularly helpful.

Brent

[ 07-13-2003, 16:52: Message edited by: Brent ]
 
Posts: 2257 | Location: Where I've bought resident tags:MN, WI, IL, MI, KS, GA, AZ, IA | Registered: 30 January 2002Reply With Quote
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"Ditto" the file suggestion. Most important is getting that area flat and same elevation as the surrounding buttstock, without "boogering up" the edge of the cheekpiece.
 
Posts: 1366 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: 10 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Brent,

I use my hands on areas directly behind the cheek piece. Bad habits are hard to break after 20 years of wood working. I would reccommend you sand the curved area first, use a round soft cylnder - like a soft pen/eraser. Then sand the cheek pad with some backing. Automotive sanding blocks come in soft rubber [3M]. If you are digging out too much on the edge, you are applying too much pressure or using too low grit. You can also tape the edge to help preserve it, if you like.

Good Luck
 
Posts: 82 | Location: Sierra Nevada Mountains | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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