I am going to glass bed my rem 700and free float the barrel.
But in a recent Guns and ammo mag my favorite author
Craig Boddington wrote on Still super 300 H&H were
Geoff Miller built him a custom useing a rem 700
and said that the bedding was simple, a little glass here and there and just a bit of upward pressure.Now the rem stock
has a pressure point all ready there ,Should i leave it and
glass bed or remove it and free float the barrel and glass bed the action add apressure point later if the free floating dosen't work out? How much bedding should i do?
Recoil lug and just forward a bit or the whole action.
Please explain the ''simple a little glass here and there''
I know its a lot of questions, Pleas help
Thanks Reloaderlen

You'll get a lot of opinions on this one, but here's mine. I don't like a pressure point, because they're hard to keep consistent in damp, cold weather. I also feel that about 90% of the time a rifle shoots better with a floated barrel.
Soooo, I would remove the pressure point, and bed the recoil lug area and approximately 2 to 2 1/2" of the chamber area ahead of the lug, and bed around the tang screw in the rear. Everything in between should have very slight clearance with the stock. I've bedded every one of my rifles this way and they shoot super.
Most people will say shoot it and see, but I know I'm not going to like the pressure point, so I usually don't bother shooting. If it were me, I would only consider a pressure point on a synthetic stock, as changes with weather conditions would be limited.
Good luck.

I glass bed around under the entire action. I tape the recoil lug bottom, sides, and front to give it clearance. I never have any of the barrel touch unless there is a second recoil lug. Even with synthetic stocks, the forearm moves. THis is especially true with factory injection moulded stocks. THey move more under temperature changes than wood does. If the barrel and action are semi correct, then a rifle will ususally shoot better with no pressure on the barrel. If a pressure point helps and th eaction is properly beded, then there is a likely a major issue with the barreled action.

I like to remove enough of the existing stock to glass bed the entire action (less the bottom, front, and sides of the recoil lug) and the entire barrel channel.

I wrap two layers of electrical tape around the barrel prior to bedding so that after removing the barreled action from the stock a day later I can remove the tape and the barrel is totally free floating.....no pressure point anyplace.

I know that some manufacturers intentionally install a "pressure" point and I remove them like a wart on ones face.....they are equally useful IMO.

Free floating barrels are what I strive for and the action is to be well bedded front and rear and only two screws working to tighten it to the stock.

I bed the whole action and 2" of the barrel.

From there forward, I cut out enough material so that I am sure the stock will never touch the barrel.