Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply |
One of Us |
A quick question for the wood experts out there: I just picked up a Weatherby stock, with the typical high-gloss factory finish. The wood and the finish are in terrific shape, but I am much more a fan of the satin or matte finish wood stocks. I am toying with the idea of stripping the finish and applying an oil finish, as I've had fairly good results on a few others I've done, but it just seems a little nutty to do all that work to remove amd replace a finish that is in literally perfect, brand-new condition. Is it reasonable to use extra-fine steel wool, or perhaps some other mild abrasive, to just sort of "knock off" that blinding gloss, without actually removing the stuff that's on there? Would that reduce the durability or water-resistance of the finish? And would it affect the beauty of the stock? This is a lovely chunk of walnut, and I don't want to screw it up. Any tips, pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated. | ||
|
one of us |
Extra fine might work. It still cuts pretty fast. I've used the FINEST Scotch-brite pad. Rotten stone and oil paste(I use paraffin oil) I think works best pumice is too coarse. Putting a satin finish on it will do nothing to water resistance. As to beauty a good hand rubbed oil finish will really bring out the wood. That is what you are trying to copy. All you need to do is cut the gloss not cut the finish if that makes sense. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
|
one of us |
I've done it to high gloss polyurethane finishes in years past. Found that it obscures the wood beneath, doesn't really pass for an oil finish. Places where I handled it a lot were soon glossy again. | |||
|
one of us |
Glen sure wasn't trying to say that a the poly would look like oil Only that the wood could still show through a satin finish. Never had anyone say the gloss came back but anything is possible. For sure cutting the gloss is a work around. To me the best finished is a nice hand rubbed oil. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
|
One of Us |
Thanks guys. The idea of obscuring the grain of the wood was a major concern for me, but it seems as though there will be no free lunch...again! If I want it to look like oil, I guess I have to do the work and strip it and and apply oil. Having slept on it, I think that I will learn to love it as it is, at least for the time being. I guess it won't hurt to have at least one shiny rifle. Maybe after a few years and a few scratches and dings I'll think about revisiting this as a strip/refinish project. Many thanks for the feedback. | |||
|
one of us |
Sounds like a plan. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
|
One of Us |
I've knocked the shine off several, as in most, of my guns which include a Weatherby, 700 Rem. and most of my Tru-Oil finished gun with 0000 steel wool. You'd really need to put the muscle to it to get through that tough coat on a Weatherby. What have you got to lose? your contemplating a re-do anyway. I have a few pics. of the results I could Email. --- John | |||
|
One of Us |
I have knocked the shine off Polycoated stocks , with scuff pads from an autobody supply store . It comes in many different grits , I use the Gray 1500 . I use a circular motion , the poly doesn't have any grain to it and it's much easier to get an even sheen . I cut a piece the size of my hand and rub till it starts to change and away ya go ! Takes about an hour to do the whole stock , watch the sharp edges , don't bear down too hard . On my own guns , I spray 3 coats of Helmsman Satin Spar Urethane . Tough as nails , and no glare ! Don't forget to have your Liberals spayed or neutered ! | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia