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I have an 1899 Savage 250-3000 made in 1915. How can I tell if it is a takedown model and if it is, how do you take it apart. Also I have heard that some have threaded barrels and some have dog-eared barrels (I assume this is talking about the takedown models), how can I tell (what years have each type). I have also been told to stay away from the dog-eared since they can't have the headspace corrected. I got lucky finding the first one (good shape), but am looking for another 1899/99 in 250 for a hunting gun, but I am not sure what I have (TD or solid), what I should be looking for, and what to stay away from I looked at savage99.com but only found limited info, so any additional information is greatly appreciated. I know, I should have got with Ray when his hit the classifieds, but you know it is, a day late and a dollar short. Thanks, RJS [This message has been edited by RJS (edited 11-14-2001).] | ||
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<Pfeifer> |
The Savage 99 takedown models have a metal band attached to the rear of the forend. There is a steel sliding "switch" on the lower forend that, when slid forward will allow the forend to be rotated back and separated from the rifle. It is my understanding that the barrel can then be unscrewed from the reciever at this point. There are several types of barrel thread arrangements that I have heard about. One having interrupted threads on the barrel shank. Others non-interrupted. I just picked up my first TD last week, a .32-40 1899A made in 1911. Has a nice perch-belly, crescent butt and best of all a mint bore. I was reading in one of the gun digest issues (late 90's) about one of the editors of Field & Stream who was pressing Savage to change the thread arrangement of these barrels back in the early 1900's as the early configuration would loosen up over time. He also didn't like the lever design and Savage apparently made a special version to suit his likings and made it available as an option - according to this article. If you are the least interested in Savage 99's then make a point to pick up Douglas P Murray's book "The Savage Ninety-Nine" available by sending $30 to the address at this link http://www.savage99.com/books.html . This book doesn't cover the differences in the TD configurations though. | ||
<Pfeifer> |
I suppose that I should have also added that a non-takedown model will have a screw that attaches the forend to the barrel instead of the sliding "switch". JP | ||
one of us |
Pfeifer, Thanks, for the information. The one I have must be a takedown since it has the slide on the foreend, I took it off when I was cleaning it, but couldn't figure out how to get the barrel off, so I will try and unscrew it (seemed very tight, that's why I didn't think it was takedown). It's at my parent's so will check this weekend. The gun hasn't been shot much, the barrel and action don't show any wear. I am curious, what are the details of an A model? Thanks, RJS | |||
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one of us |
On the take down, you will see a seperation on the front of the action about a 14" or so behind the forend wood, part of the steel is on the forend and you can see the line where the whole thing seperates...If this is not there it is not a take down...A mod A Savage is not a take rifle... ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
Made that 1/4" not 14" behind the forend wood and in the steel of the magazine...The seperation shows at that point. If its there it's a takedown, if the frame is solid it is not. ------------------ | |||
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<Paladin> |
Make sure the action is open before attempting to unscrew the barrel..... | ||
one of us |
This may be late but no-one has mentioned the square steel hole inside the forestock. It seems useless but is meant to fit over the barrel latch lug, you now have a handle to unscrew the barrel. MAKE sure you open action. | |||
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one of us |
Thank you to everyone who responded, the last of my questions has been answered and the mystery has been solved, it is in fact a takedown. The info is greatly appreciated. RJS | |||
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