I need someone to turn a Remington 700 into a take down, any recommendations?

thanks in advance

The recoil lug on the 700 complicates the traditional takedown concept. There’s also the H&H style or the savage barrel nut concept, but I’d be more apt to call that a “switch barrel” thing.

Yes, the H&H retains the receiver/barrel tightness. But the easiest to make is the Side set screw type; the barrel is held in place by a big set screw in the side of the receiver. I have also built them using two Allen screws under the wood, in the receiver but you have to remove the stock first so it is not a real "TD". Which is, you need no tools to accomplish.
Lots of ways to skin that cat. Of course the most elegant is the under lever or sliding catch in the forearm. like DW does.
That type costs money.....
It's also much easier if you don't cut the forearm in two; then your barrel channel has to accommodate the barrel being unscrewed.
And yes, the barrel nut is very efficient, but not a true TD. as stated, more of a switch barrel.

For what it's worth..I've done many a take down, but I do not think doing so with a Rem 700 as a basis is a good choice (and bad investment of time and material)

I'd suggest just taking the bbl and action out of the stock and travel with it that way.

Done a few switch barrels...kinda gimmicky in my opinion

If it doesn't have to be a 700 and it doesn't have to be a true bolt action, then the Browning BLR takedown. A lever operated bolt action. No tools required for the takedown.

Just buy the thing. The BLR is the cause of my current insanity.

Interesting; why do they use that collar on the barrel?

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Interesting; why do they use that collar on the barrel?

headspace I would guess

Just for fun or interest, you don't need take down: https://youtu.be/Nh9KdATUn_s

Jiri

I though about that, but the collar has a lug that fits into a slot in the barrel.
Headspace adjustment I mean.

I'd guess it's a way to keep the "joint" snug...Not sure if an interrupted thread wears more than a full thread...Never been able to prove that either way.

Some swear that an acme thread never wears...others that square threads never wears..Personally...I think ALL threads will wear to some point..depending on use

My Dad's 16 ga M-12 was snug after 50 years of hard Minnesota duck hunting. But he took it apart only to clean

quote:

Originally posted by gunmaker:

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Interesting; why do they use that collar on the barrel?

headspace I would guess

I have added new front ends to two HS precession rifles because the client wanted 2 barrel sets. The collar is for thread wear not headspace. A complicated system and not one I would replicate again willingly. The fore end glued to the barrel really threw me off. Special glue but still strange. The threads are interrupted V threads.

quote:

Originally posted by skb:
The collar is for thread wear not headspace

Read that aloud....

What happens to headspace when the thread wears????

Thanks guys.Randys is a year out. Possibly the BLR is the way to go for what I need.

quote:

Originally posted by gunmaker:

quote:

Originally posted by skb:
The collar is for thread wear not headspace

Read that aloud....

What happens to headspace when the thread wears????

The threads wear and the barrel becomes loose. To tighten it back up you loosen the screws in the face plate on the fore end and turn the collar slightly. This pushes the datum line for the chamber FARTHER away from the bolt face and INCREASES headspace. The collar is not to adjust for headspace. This why it is best to chamber this system so the bolt barely closes on a go gauge.

Here is the patent on the HS system.

https://patents.google.com/patent/US5020260A/en

Ah; so the adjustment system actually uses two pieces; a rear plate that is indexed to slots in the barrel shank, and a collar, which rotates. Couldn't tell from the picture.
Easy to understand; and totally unnecessary. And yes, it would increase headspace because the barrel itself can't move rearward. Only forward. Still, not something to worry about; more TDs are worn out showing their friends how it works than from actual use.
I, too, have my father's 16 ga Model 12 from the 50s; still tighht and I have not adjusted the thread collar; which is a totally different system, that does work.

quote:

Originally posted by skb:

quote:

Originally posted by gunmaker:

quote:

Originally posted by skb:
The collar is for thread wear not headspace

Read that aloud....

What happens to headspace when the thread wears????

The threads wear and the barrel becomes loose. To tighten it back up you loosen the screws in the face plate on the fore end and turn the collar slightly. This pushes the datum line for the chamber FARTHER away from the bolt face and INCREASES headspace. The collar is not to adjust for headspace. This why it is best to chamber this system so the bolt barely closes on a go gauge.

Here is the patent on the HS system.

https://patents.google.com/patent/US5020260A/en

Thanks for posting that. Interesting to see the different approaches,,..in the 1920's Barney Worthen used a relatively simple collar on the barrel.

Downside is that would also tend to increase headspace.

The best there is (sorry ):



It does require a T-handled hex wrench, however.

Personally, I think if a tool is required, might just as well be a screwdriver to take normal gun apart.

Near the end of a gun show, Gary Goudy was frantically attempting to find an allen wrench so he could take apart a Dakota..he only had a take down case and needed to catch a plane.

Moral: If you have to use a tool, better staple it to your forehead so you can't possibly lose it.

Exactly.
Why not just make the TD mechanism simple, and forget about adjusting headspace; it won't increase. If it does, it wasn't fitted correctly to start with.

quote:

Originally posted by thirdbite:
In the same vein, l would like to know who might convert a rifle to the take-apart style like the H&H. It seems all that is required is cutting and fitting the top tang and changing the front guard screw so it doesn't screw out of the bottom metal.

"converting" is' not that easy. At the rear, a strong hold down is required so something like a claw mount can be attached to the tang.

At the front, the common method is a guard screw attached to an extended floor plate hinge. Seen this done and after a pretty short time, the screw over indexes.

All in all..you don't really gain much. You still have a package that is no smaller than just taking the barrel and action out of the stock....But...yes, no tools needed.

Admittedly, could sometimes be desirable

The shortest bolt action you will get is the greater of these two:

Barrel length = 22"
front ring of action to recoil pad = 20-21" (SA Rem 700)

Min = 22"

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If you popped a remm700 out of the stock you get 29"
The stock would be 32"

Almost forgot the scope - add inches depending on your eye relief

maybe use a chassis with a folding stock

Min = 29"
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Just thinking out loud.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
....Gary Goudy was frantically attempting to find an allen wrench so he could take apart a Dakota......

Dakota is a different animal. They came out just after I quit working there. The takedown system is based on the M16 barrel extension as the receiver lugs are screwed onto the barrel "permanently". This idea wasn't spawned by Don as he had no interest in gas guns. Marty Bordson (Badger Ordnance) got the ball rolling and I'm sure the Mack Bros had a hand in the development as well. The headspace never wears out. Pretty sure I've seen one of the German 98 clone manufacturers using this same system.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Moral: If you have to use a tool, better staple it to your forehead so you can't possibly lose it.

I hear you. It is definitely too big to hang on a key chain!

And I did even once lose my keys.