What do you use to keep them supple? I had a military type crack through a set of holes and some others look dried out.


Thanks, Rob

I use SnoSeal (i believe the correct spelling is??) on mine. When I get a new leather sling, I work as much SnoSeal into it as I can, by repeated application, heating (hair dryer) and by (almost endless) bending of every part of the sling until it is as supple as I want it. Then I pretty much leave the slings alone.

- mike

In reference to military type slings I have good luck using the same boot grease I waterproof my hunting boots with. My current jar is Sno Seal. Keeps them from cracking, and makes them waterproof at the same time ( yeah I know thats not a big seal ).

This just fits in my cheap ass mode, why buy something else when I have something sitting around that works great and can get dual use out of.

Another place to look is in your shoe shine kit ( or is the only and old Army and Marine veterans deal ?) clear boot polish, or a silcon spray ( worst option ) will work also.

To attempt to repair your existing sling try a lanoline based product. Mine looks like hand lotion, and that will not repair the cracks but it will soften it up and keep it from cracking any more., then hit it with boot grease of claer polish.

The best bet is buy a new sling and right out of the box do the boot grease it will last for a couple of years at least between coatings and the slings will last 15-20 years that way.

The best stuff I have ever used is Montana Pitch-Blend. They have an oil and a paste and this stuff is incredible. I use it on all my leather stuff and can recommend it without hesitation.

It combines pine pitch and Mink oil and has no silicon or petroleum products in it.


(406) 728-0970

quote:

Mink oil

I used to use that on my boots, finding it seems to be a bugger anymore. I am sure I can find it mail order but when I am in the mood to waterproof boots and leathergoods, I roll with it and get it on it, as its too easy to bag it till next time I am interested.

I haven't seen it on the shelves in years though. I don't use my heat gun but I do warm up the oven and use it when I am waterproofing.

Ideally, leather care happens before cracking. If you are doing preventive maintenance then you must first determine if your leather is dry tanned (Boyt) or oil tanned (Hunter). If it is oil tanned then occasional coats of leather oil like Lexol or Mink oil will keep it soft. Waterproofing formulas like Snow Seal have leather oil in them as well as wax to seal in the moisture.
Dry tanned leather can only be sealed with wax (polish) or Silicon to help it retain it’s natural oils.
If oils are applied to dry tanned leather it will readily absorb them and soften the leather. This is also a way to help soften old cracked leather but the cracks will remain.
Dry tanned leather makes finer products that retain their shape well but don’t handle wet conditions as well. Oil tanned is usually cheaper and easy to take care of. Good Shoot’n

OK, that's a record, 4 replies in 20 minutes, everyone sitting around waiting to eat .

Thanks for the good suggestions, the one that cracked is history, I want to soften up some others before they crack.

Anyone ever hear of Pecards Leather Dressings, supposed to be good also.

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Regards,
Recoil Rob

The problem with treating slings is that most of the available treatments you apply to the leather are somewhat or very messy, end up all over your clothes, etc.

My favorite way to treat slings, knife sheaths, leather binocular cases, cartridge holders, etc. is to use Armor-All Leather Wipes, which are available in dispenser jars, and they're available at any auto parts store. These wipes work to perfection, and they're not messy or greasy at all. They're made for treating leather car upholstery, so they're designed not to leave behind any resudue. They penetrate well and leave behind a nice sheen on the leather. Super suff!

AD

Turner’s Saddlery (1907 Slings) also sells a very good leather dressing.

With all due respect...I would never use Armor All on any leather I really cared about...but to each his own.

Rick, I don't think you quite understood what I was saying. This preparation is MADE by Armor-All, but it is NOT the same Armor-All product that is designed for treating rubber, vinyl, plastic etc.

The product I'm referring to is specifically designed and formulated for use on LEATHER-ONLY, and it does indeed work very well for that purpose.......

AD

Alan,

I’ll make you a deal...I won’t attempt to tell you about big game hunting, and you don’t attempt to tell me about leather.

Look on the container of Armor All (any product they make) and you will notice that the ingredients are not listed. Their leather care products say that they don’t contain phosphorus (that’s to satisfy the EPA types)...but they don’t tell you what they do contain.

Ask anyone who deals in fine leather and they will tell you to stay away from Armor All and all other leather care products that contain silicon, polymers,solvents, and/or petroleum products. They will eventually weaken and/or destroy the fibers in the leather. They will also attack the stitching.

Like I said...to each his own...but there are far too many good leather care products like Peccards or Montana Pitch Blend that “feed†the leather what it needs to stay supple and strong, and to protect it from the elements.

And I’m not being a “tree-hugger†when I say that.

I use Pecard's Classic Leather Dressing on my leather Latigo slings. I've been very satisfied with the product.



http://www.pecard.com/

-Bob F.

There are a hundred good products for leather care, personally I like to use mink oil.

The problem is that you usually do not have something on hand when you find a piece that needs some treatment. I have found a really great product for those times- don't laugh!- but barbasol shaving cream.

It doesn't need to be barbasol (I think Gillette Foamy works too), just look at the ingredients and get one with lanolin in it. To apply, just rub it on with your fingers and leave it in the sun for a half hour, then wipe off. An added bonus is you can clean the leather with it a bit too, rub it in with a cloth when you are initially applying it. It softens leather but does not darken it like neatsfoot oil does.

Kiwi sells a new saddle soap with lanolin in it. I have found it to be ideal for cleaning my leather products and boots. After cleaning and rinsing off the dirt that the soap has "lifted" out of the leather you just apply more of it and let it soak a while and the leather absorbs most of the foam and it somewhat seals the leather while leaving an oiled feel to the leather.

Don’t think that lanolin is weird...it is one of the best natural lubricants and water-proofers around. I use it in my home made bore cleaner.

Most health food stores carry pure lanolin and also bees wax...which is another good leather conditioner and protector.