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One of Us |
Haven't done any in over 30 years, but wondered if the wicking grade loc tite would be a consideration....or...? | ||
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One of Us |
Duane I use Locite 640 sleeve retainer and have never had one come loose. You do have to work fast as it does not give you a whole lot of time. Other wise good ole Acraglas Never rode a bull, but have shot some. NRA life member NRA LEO firearms instructor (retired) NRA Golden Eagles member | |||
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One of Us |
Don’t really think wick in would be suitable. 620 retaining compound is great stuff, high strength, high temp and slow fixture time. Like 1 hour compared to the other retainers which are 10-15 minutes. | |||
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one of us |
First Question Rim-fire ? Or Center-fire ? I use Loctite 271 on both, BUT the method of installing the type of liners are different Rim-fire liners are a slip fit Center-fire liners have a larger threaded section on the breech so they screw into place Both I DO NOT drill all the way out the end of the muzzle, and then fit the liner end to match up with the drill angle at the muzzle to hide the joint J Wisner | |||
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One of Us |
25-35 94 Win Metal...620 soundsd GOOD....Jim..the idea of the muzzle treatment makes sense,,,Thanks to all...At any rate, should be easier than the old soldering technique. The liner is .498 and is not threaded at breech but liner tapers to .499 at breech end...plan was to finish ream to .500 Sound OK? | |||
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One of Us |
I don't know about reaming, will leave a smooth finish in the hole. When using an adhesive, I like to have some "bite" for secure adhesion. | |||
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One of Us |
Good thought! | |||
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One of Us |
Been awhile since I installed a liner, but the last was a .22 rimfire. OD of the liner was 5/16, drilled with 8mm (.315). I could still feel a bit of interference when dry fitting. I'd drill it. If I needed more confidence, I'd drill a 1/2" hole in 6"L of cold drawn and see how the liner felt in that before proceeding. Or, maybe drill an old piece of .25 cal. barrel if I had something laying around. (added) I didn't use Brownells drills, I bought quality 8mm bits and added my own extension(s). Used no 'pilot', new drill bits and drilled in the lathe. | |||
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One of Us |
Like slivers, I've done .22 rf with 8mm. In addition to not quite exiting barrel, I peen the end of barrel metal lightly to displace the metal tightly into the joint after the liner is set in place. Crowning cleans it up, and the tight joint is invisible, particularly if you use crown to further hide the joint. | |||
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One of Us |
Loctite requires some gap, and can get pretty darn scientific if you really want to get into the weeds. I don't have the bottle in front of me, but 720 seems to come to mind? Green, and pretty sure it is sleeve retainer. The notion that you want a "rough" surface is incorrect from what I have been told. It adheres better to a smooth surface. For some reason .003" comes to mind, regarding the clearance you want between the two parts. .498 and .500 should work fine though. On precision fits, I tend to try and leave something to mechanically locate, with the remainder being clearance for the adhesive. I can tell you from experience that with the correct fit, you will have to machine the corresponding parts off. A shop I used to work at used it for industrial shafting for one of the local plants, and a few times a year I had to turn the worn out parts off, fit and loctite new ones. Nathaniel Myers Myers Arms LLC nathaniel@myersarms.com www.myersarms.com Follow us on Instagram and YouTube I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools. | |||
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One of Us |
638 works mighty fine for 22 rimfires, 38 specials, and 38-55's. Ran an Okie test on a 4" chunk cut off a Krieger, and a 5" Redmans cut off piece. Drilled, reamed, and cleaned the barrel, cleaned the liner, and stuck it together with 638 leaving 1" stick out. Next day put the thing in a press and the stickout piece mushroomed and finally bent over. The part in the barrel did not budge. | |||
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One of Us |
Well...I've certainly gained a lot from this thread,,Hppe others did too This 1913 25-35 saddle ring carbine has been enjoyed...REALLY enjoyed. Plan was to restore, but hesitant to wipe out what lookes like a rich history. Barrel? Just can't live with that bore! Looks like the owner bought it new, used it a lifetime and never cleaned the barrel. Two grandsons already want it | |||
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one of us |
How fast is fast 5 minutes, 30 minutes? Don't limit your challenges . . . Challenge your limits | |||
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One of Us |
I was suggesting mechanical lock using Acra-Glass or one of the other 2 part epoxies. | |||
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One of Us |
How fast is fast 5 minutes, 30 minutes?[/QU I don't have the bottle in front of me but as I recall 30 minutes, might check the sheet on it posted on the product web site. Never rode a bull, but have shot some. NRA life member NRA LEO firearms instructor (retired) NRA Golden Eagles member | |||
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One of Us |
Well....liner installed...I followed the advice of Jim Wisner on the procedure: Soldered a threaded sleeve on the liner, and went with 721 Loc tite. The sleeve was threaded 9/16 x 28. Tolerances are a bit tight on the 94 barrel...but all turned out well. Muzzle joint is invisible using Jim's technique. | |||
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One of Us |
Where/who has threaded liners? | |||
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One of Us |
Don't know IF such is available..I made mine from a segment of old barrel. | |||
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