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one of us |
Two "firsts" tried and two "firsts" disappointing. I just bedded a stock using the "stock" action screws. All turned out pretty well but the catastrophe occurred because epoxy oozed up into the action prior to the screws engaging. Was able to remove all from the rear area and THOUGHT all was removed from the front action screw area...WRONG. That area where the bolt lugs turn into now has cured epoxy in them and no way will the bolt now close. ANYONE know of any way to remove epoxy without using acid? Has anyone used an epoxy solvent such as "ATTACK" with success? I'm considering using heat with a heat gun, but am not sure if it could warp the action. Any suggestions? I read about using plumber's putty for damming up the areas where one wants to contain the epoxy in the stock. For me, the stuff is too soft, and flowed over the epoxy in a couple of areas that should be redone. How can one remove plumber's putty from the cured epoxy without weakening the properties of the epoxy, yet get it clean enough to bed new epoxy to the cured epoxy? Thanks again to all pro's. ************************ Our independence is dying. | ||
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one of us |
Heat the metal the epoxy will release. Doubt a head gun would heat the action enough to warp it. Besides it doesn't need to be that hot for normal epoxy to release. I switched to a gel epoxy and no longer have a problem with epoxy flowing into the wrong areas. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Moderator |
You can also heat the epoxy directly with a hot nail, piece of bent coat hanger, or soldering iron. use a couple of them in rotation if you need to. for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside | |||
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one of us |
For future reference... I now use Silly Putty instead of clay or plumbers putty when bedding. It holds well, epoxy doesn't stick and cleanup is a breeze. It will not adhere well to the metal so you need a mechanical hold when using it but that's what makes clean up easy. You can find it on the web in 1 & 5 pound pieces. | |||
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One of Us |
As info, my Milwaukee heat gun has two settings, 750 degrees F and 1100 degrees F. Most epoxies, including Acra-Glas, break down and let go at about 350 degrees F. 750 F is well below the temperature at which any harm would be done to hot bluing, heat-treated steel, etc. | |||
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One of Us |
ANYONE know of any way to remove epoxy without using acid? Has anyone used an epoxy solvent such as "ATTACK" with success? I'm considering using heat with a heat gun, but am not sure if it could warp the action. Any suggestions? Yes as others have stated ,Heating !. I read about using plumber's putty for damming up the areas where one wants to contain the epoxy in the stock. For me, the stuff is too soft, and flowed over the epoxy in a couple of areas that should be redone. How can one remove plumber's putty from the cured epoxy without weakening the properties of the epoxy, yet get it clean enough to bed new epoxy to the cured epoxy? When burning plumbers putty watch out for CARBON DIOXIDE & CARBON MONOXIDE AS THEY MAY BE RELEASED ON BURNING . Lacquer thinner or Acetone may wipe away plumbers putty , mineral spirits will not . Either that or a dremel tool and cut it and epoxy out and start over . | |||
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One of Us |
I've never had any problems at all using kids' modeling clay to fill voids. Quick, Cheap, or Good: Pick Two | |||
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