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Cured Epoxy/Putty Removal?
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Picture of DannoBoone
posted
Two "firsts" tried and two "firsts" disappointing. I just bedded
a stock using the "stock" action screws. All turned out pretty
well but the catastrophe occurred because epoxy oozed up into
the action prior to the screws engaging. Was able to remove all
from the rear area and THOUGHT all was removed from the front
action screw area...WRONG. That area where the bolt lugs turn
into now has cured epoxy in them and no way will the bolt now
close.

ANYONE know of any way to remove epoxy without using acid? Has
anyone used an epoxy solvent such as "ATTACK" with success? I'm
considering using heat with a heat gun, but am not sure if it
could warp the action. Any suggestions?

I read about using plumber's putty for damming up the areas
where one wants to contain the epoxy in the stock. For me, the
stuff is too soft, and flowed over the epoxy in a couple of
areas that should be redone. How can one remove plumber's
putty from the cured epoxy without weakening the properties
of the epoxy, yet get it clean enough to bed new epoxy to the
cured epoxy?

Thanks again to all pro's.


************************

Our independence is dying.
 
Posts: 565 | Location: Walker, IA, USA | Registered: 03 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of ramrod340
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Heat the metal the epoxy will release. Doubt a head gun would heat the action enough to warp it. Besides it doesn't need to be that hot for normal epoxy to release.

I switched to a gel epoxy and no longer have a problem with epoxy flowing into the wrong areas.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Mark
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You can also heat the epoxy directly with a hot nail, piece of bent coat hanger, or soldering iron. use a couple of them in rotation if you need to.


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7777 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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For future reference... I now use Silly Putty instead of clay or plumbers putty when bedding. It holds well, epoxy doesn't stick and cleanup is a breeze. It will not adhere well to the metal so you need a mechanical hold when using it but that's what makes clean up easy. You can find it on the web in 1 & 5 pound pieces.
 
Posts: 1694 | Location: East Coast | Registered: 06 January 2003Reply With Quote
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As info, my Milwaukee heat gun has two settings, 750 degrees F and 1100 degrees F. Most epoxies, including Acra-Glas, break down and let go at about 350 degrees F. 750 F is well below the temperature at which any harm would be done to hot bluing, heat-treated steel, etc.
 
Posts: 386 | Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada | Registered: 01 February 2006Reply With Quote
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ANYONE know of any way to remove epoxy without using acid? Has
anyone used an epoxy solvent such as "ATTACK" with success? I'm
considering using heat with a heat gun, but am not sure if it
could warp the action. Any suggestions?

Yes as others have stated ,Heating !.

I read about using plumber's putty for damming up the areas
where one wants to contain the epoxy in the stock. For me, the
stuff is too soft, and flowed over the epoxy in a couple of
areas that should be redone. How can one remove plumber's
putty from the cured epoxy without weakening the properties
of the epoxy, yet get it clean enough to bed new epoxy to the
cured epoxy?

When burning plumbers putty watch out for CARBON DIOXIDE & CARBON MONOXIDE

AS THEY MAY BE RELEASED ON BURNING .

Lacquer thinner or Acetone may wipe away plumbers putty , mineral spirits will not .

Either that or a dremel tool and cut it and epoxy out and start over .
 
Posts: 4485 | Location: Planet Earth | Registered: 17 October 2008Reply With Quote
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I've never had any problems at all using kids' modeling clay to fill voids.


Quick, Cheap, or Good: Pick Two
 
Posts: 2176 | Location: Tennessee | Registered: 18 February 2007Reply With Quote
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