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Trigger pull on FN Mauser?
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Fellas,

I have a couple of FN Mausers that have very crisp triggers with no creep. However, they are a bit heavier than I'd like at 4 1/4 pounds.

Is there a source of softer springs for this trigger?

Thanks!


Mike

--------------
DRSS, Womper's Club, NRA Life Member/Charter Member NRA Golden Eagles ...
Knifemaker, http://www.mstarling.com
 
Posts: 6199 | Location: Charleston, WV | Registered: 31 August 2002Reply With Quote
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Wolff Springs

www.gunsprings.com
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Guess I should have specified FN Commercial Mauser w single stage trigger.


Mike

--------------
DRSS, Womper's Club, NRA Life Member/Charter Member NRA Golden Eagles ...
Knifemaker, http://www.mstarling.com
 
Posts: 6199 | Location: Charleston, WV | Registered: 31 August 2002Reply With Quote
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Mike,

I buy spring kits (Wolff Springs) from Brownell's so I have a selection from which to pick the correct coil diameter and wire thickness for changing trigger springs. I do trigger jobs on all of my rifle needing improvement.
My criteria for making a spring change is to select a wire thickness that is 20% thinner than the factory spring. YMMV, but it works for me. I then just cut the new spring to the exact length as the existing spring. The coil diameter should be the same too, or very close.

Don




 
Posts: 5798 | Registered: 10 July 2004Reply With Quote
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I have been doing trigger jobs from scratch on Mausers for a while.

A)The trigger spring, when replaced with a ball point pen spring, will only reduce the force from 8 pounds to 7 pounds. This is worth doing for a varmint rifle, but not a big game rifle.

B) The trigger has two humps that make it two stage.
If you grind off some of the rear hump you can reduce the force to ~2 pounds.

Be careful. The force is cased by:
1) the distance from the trigger fulcrum [pin] to to point that the trigger touches the sear at the time the firing pin is released.
2) the angle of the trigger where it touches the the sear
3) other minor contributions from sear angle, friction, spring force, etc.

What does it all mean?
1) You will want the angle shallow, but the distance short.
2) This makes it easy to grind too much.
3) Have a well ground trigger to copy, a spare trigger, or a TIG welder handy.

Be satisfied with a reliable 2 pound trigger and consider it finished.

C) The take up is done by milling out a space for a bracket to be Silver soldered. The bracket is then drilled and tapped for a take up adjustment screw and lock nut. This is shown in MacFarland's book. I use 4-40.

D) The over travel can be fixed with a nail ground to length and placed inside the trigger spring. It can also be fixed by drilling and tapping a hole in the trigger spring cowling on the sear, and installing an over travel adjustment screw and lock nut. I use 4-40.

Beware that having trigger adjustments brings with it safety issues. Even for a target or varmint rifle, it needs to pass the "slam the butt on the floor and no accidental discharge" test. Also, if the over travel gets out of adjustment, the gun may not fire... Not what you want for big game.
 
Posts: 9043 | Location: on the rock | Registered: 16 July 2005Reply With Quote
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