Do you set your pattern up so the top is level

length ways and side ways. Kenny

Yes. What is your real question? If you are trying to set up a pattern, there is more to it than just that.

bpcd

I guess my real question is looking at the pictures of the duplicator you made in 2013.

I can't see how you move the pattern that last little bit to make it level.

I have never seen a "High class" duplicator, just pictures.

I know how to set mine up. Not high class.
I can move either end of my pattern to get it level or straight with set screws. Kenny

The top line of the stock from end to end doesn't have to be level. Does help if you are trying to combine two patterns. Key is to remember everything is rotating around a center line. As dpcd said there is plenty to setting up a pattern. You also have to make sure the duplicator is set up so the rotation center lines between the pattern and duplicator match as well as the guide and cutter spacing.
Nice thing is once you get your pattern set up it is easier next time. Now making a copy of someone's stock calls for a lot more setup.

Check out this link. You will recognize some of the pictures. Does a good job of explaining.

http://www.africahunting.com/t...ck-duplicator.28310/

Set up will very a little on various machines but the process is pretty much the same.

I see what you want to know now; on the machine I built, there is no adjustment for pattern or blank placement; you just measure and sink the centers. Then check with the cutter and stylus. I could have made it more complicated, but I didn't. And I use a level, to get it, level.

Thanks for the pictures ramrod.

I don't take orders at this time.
I will not cut someones wood.
I am too inclined to make a mistake. I am beginner.
I rough a stock leaving extra width on the forend
and a little extra thickness in the action area.
I then take it out of the machine.
I now have a stock I can inlet for several different actions. I can also cut the barrel channel now right after inlet. This is why it has to be as level as possible.
I am picture challenged but I will try to get some pictures up soon. It will be easier to see
what I am babbling about. Kenny

quote:

This is why it has to be as level as possible.

Curious.

I've found that I need the top of the forearm level right to left to do better inletting. But not end to end.

I did the two pattern (to allow different inletting on same external) a couple times. Found it was far less time and I think better results to have full patterns inletted differently.

More photos in the link that ramrod posted.

Right, longitudinally is not leveled to anything.