I was wondering what is involved in polishing a bolt action rilfe along the lines of a CZ or Ruger? Is it something the average person can learn and try at home or is it best left to a competant gunsmith?
Regards,
Pete
Posts: 5684 | Location: North Wales UK | Registered: 22 May 2002
I'm in the process of polishing a VZ-24 action--my second attempt at action polishing. For my first attempt I used the buffing method; fast but not necessarily pretty. For this action I'm now attempting to follow directions provided by a past contributor to these forums, Mr. Jack Belk and so far I'm very pleased with the results. Jack's a proponent of stoning the action instead of buffing and If you do a search in this forum going back 2 or 3 years you might find more info. Jack put together some instructions and posted quite a few pictures here: Belk's Albums Click on the FN Polish album.
If you're interested I can email you a copy of his instructions.
Posts: 2950 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001
Sorry I did not make myself clear...I was thinking about the internals so that the bolt closed nice and smoothly rather than the exterior.... If you can shed any light on that, it would be most welcome,
Regards,
Pete
Posts: 5684 | Location: North Wales UK | Registered: 22 May 2002
Sorry I did not make myself clear...I was thinking about the internals so that the bolt closed nice and smoothly rather than the exterior.... If you can shed any light on that, it would be most welcome,
Regards,
Pete
This is a great question! For me at least. I would like to know the answer to this, also.
Internals are covered well in Jack's instructions and photos. Basically, he advocates using soft polishing stones epoxied to a length of wood or alluminum bar to polish the lug races. If you go to the photo site you will see a picture of the set up. If you want the full narative send me your email address and I'll forward the Word document.
Posts: 2950 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001
Pete, we use to manufacture fishing lures, we used a firm in liverpool to do the polishing, they put the lures in a vibra tumbler and the lures came out like a mirror. the only possible way i could see this working for you is if covered the outside of the bolt with a rubber substance to save the blueing. one thing is for sure they were bright and shiny and super smooth.
griff
Posts: 1179 | Location: scotland | Registered: 28 February 2001
I've taken the liberty of incorporating the photos from J Belks FN Polishing album with the text description he sent out a number of years ago. It's a 3.92 Meg Word document. I can e-mail it to those who are interested.
As a tinkerer, I'd also appreciate a copy of your Word document. Please don't send it to my email address in my profile as I can't receive an attachment that large at my yahoo account. Please send it to bjdoerr at earthlink dot net.
Thanks, Brian
Posts: 306 | Location: Originally from Texas | Registered: 17 March 2001
Pete, theres a firm called Cetem in either Coventry or Brum that sells what I call the lolly pop sticks for polishing and they also have the diamond paste for polishing, I believe they come in different colours for different finishes.
Griff
Posts: 1179 | Location: scotland | Registered: 28 February 2001
Thanks for that...However, before I start any polishing that could have a detremental effect on tollerences ect, I am going to look long and hard at the info from Tooman Tools.
At the very least by reading this, I hope to be a little more knowledgable and it may be I feel its best left to someone who really knows what they are doing!
Regards
Pete
Posts: 5684 | Location: North Wales UK | Registered: 22 May 2002
Pete Evans, See the thread on final polishing. Before the various pastes you might check out the el cheapo diamond needle files. Stay away from the cylindrical surfaces and start on the cocking piece slot in receiver rear tang. Materials used by plastic injection mould makers are usable and probably your best UK source.
Sorry I did not make myself clear...I was thinking about the internals so that the bolt closed nice and smoothly rather than the exterior.... If you can shed any light on that, it would be most welcome,
Regards,
Pete
I believe the Steyr Works used diamond dust to hone the Mannlicher-Schoenauer actions to achieve their legendary smoothness.....