I've got a checkering project where the stock was finished using Sherwin-Williams Kemvar conversion varnish. Now the checkering is done and I need to put a final coat of finish on the entire stock, but SW only sells this in 5-gallon buckets. Anyone out there got any of this stuff and willing to let me buy a few ounces?

John ; You can use any quality brand as a substitute for any or all coating re coating needs .

Sherwin Williams isn't the only game in town .

http://search.atomz.com/search...=all&sp-f=ISO-8859-1

http://www.valsparwood.com/val...globalResistovar.jsp

http://www.valsparwood.com/val...oducts/duraspeed.jsp

See if you can find a Mohawk Distributor through a paint supplier in your area and your troubles

will be over . This is also a Quality product . http://www.geminicoatings.com/p/12133/Default.aspx

I have Bu coo amounts of many types of finishing products :Cat Lacquer's , Polyesters , Urethane's

hybrid polyesters , urethane epoxy's and the finest varnishes made EPIFANES .

Sorry I don't have or use conversion varnishes but would be glad to help with any of the above .

Doc,

Thanks for the info; looks like just what I'm after. I'd never heard of conversion varnish before this as very few of my customers want a thick, high gloss finish, but this is for my Son's K-80 trap gun and that's what he likes.

Doc, Are you familiar with Sikkiens wood finishes. I used some on a big fancy front door I refinished. It was recommended by the local mountain paint store. Supposed to be high solids stuff

If it's ultra hard high gloss then Epifanes varnish is my recommendation. Quality per cost .


Epifanes clear marine spar varnish is renowned for its gloss finish and offers superior protection in all climates. Made from Chinese tung oil and non-yellowing alkyd and urethane resins including U.V. inhibitors to make it an exceptional finish for wood or over traditional marine varnish clear urethane and clear epoxy resins systems.


Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss varnish works especially well on Teak wood. No sanding between coats is required. This is the perfect alternative to traditional varnish without the work or repetitive care. Phenolic based resins, tung oil, and UV inhibitors build quickly for a high gloss finish. Excellent protection and adhesion to teak and other woods. Wood Finish Gloss is also recommended as a sealer/filler for wood.


http://www.jamestowndistributo...+Gloss+Clear+Varnish


http://www.aircraftspruce.com/...olphepoxyvarnish.php



Technical Specifications
* Container Size: 500 ml., 1000ml.
* Gloss: Ultra High Gloss
* Density: 0.92 kg./liter
* Solids Content : 50 +/- 2 vol. %
* Drying times at 65F / 65% RH: Tack free - 2 hours / Tape free - 24 hours Dry - 24 hours / Recoatable - 24 hours
* Recommended Film Thickness: Per coat wet - 50 micron / Per coat dry - 30 micron
* Application: Brush, roller, conventional air spray, H.V.L.P.

Temperatures should be between 50 degrees F and 85 degrees F for application, with air humidity below 85 percent. Avoid varnishing in too much sun or wind, a rapid loss of solvents will occur under these conditions and will decrease the flowing ability. Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss is compatible with most other types of one-component alkyd or urethane based varnishes and over two-component varnishes.

In answer to your question if I'm familiar with Sikkens ?. YES ; I formulated for Akzo Nobel which owns

Sikkens . However my side of the business was ANAC Akzo Nobel Aerospace Coatings Division .

Aerodur line in particular also the Epoxy chemical resistant coatings as per Gov. requirements .

Most of the Company's as well as the materials I formulated for and with are strictly commercial

application and are NASTY stuff containing ; TYPE I,II ,III ALIPHATIC ISOCYANATE properties .

I also formulated several different adhesives Epoxies as my disciplines are based in Polymers .

Monomers are the building blocks of more complex molecules, called polymers. Polymers consist of repeating molecular units which usually are joined by covalent bonds.

in other words mechanical and chemical relationships and it the world of Chemistry it doesn't get any

better than that .

http://www.anac.com/products/DataSheets/30-03.pdf

http://www.anac.com/products/D...heets/422Xseries.pdf


If I personally want a project to have a clear high gloss medium or low sheen tough as nails

finish , with high abrasion and chemical resistance ; I use a two component urethane clear

generally of the nasty stuff ( for myself ) for others Aircraft ,Marine ,Automotive Urethane's .

High gloss is the most durable of finishes then semi ,matte ,low sheen and flat .

So I start with High gloss apply several coats allowing partial ( nearly full cure )last coat

full curing . Then I knock it down ( I detest the plastic stock look ) with a felt pad and rotten-stone

if I like it , I clean it and rub it with Wax or oil and or the combination . It's fully protected

full functional and is superior to all standard gun finishes .

( as far as wood finishes are concerned ) . The Oil doesn't penetrate it simply softens the looks

similar to a fine English Oil finish yet far far superior in every way .

If my Rifles fall into a stream or lake , my only concerns are with the metal protection aspects .

I've found that after proper fitting of all metal and bedding of the stock is completed .

A complete coating either by immersion or careful brushing of above finish " Soaks " into the porous

wood grain and seals it from with in . So no matter how hard water tries to enter it's always rejected .

Surface coating just didn't do it for me . I peculiar that way . I would Never Ever do those finishes

on an H&H ,Drilling , Purdy , LC Smith and several others mind you .

I may be fanatical but not loony tunes !. Let me know if I can help ? .