there use to be a little knob on each side of the site to fit in the groove of the site hood, but the hood has sheared them off and constantly falls off under recoil. is there any fix? I want to keep the hood to protect the fiber optic site.

I was able to simply bend my hood to increase the tension.

Replace the sight?
JB Weld to replace the knob?
Loctite the hood in place?

New hood.

Tried locktight. still worked it's way off, looks like JB weld is the next step. I should check the price of a site ramp. it might be cost less than JB Weld

A new hood wont solve the problem because it is the knobs on the site that sheared off.

Thanks guys

I'd just throw it away. I can never get them to stay on.

OEM parts are still available for M 70s.
If it's a custom cannon like a 505 Gibbs, then call these guys as they sell the best front sight options around. Be sure to get the window hood !

http://www.newenglandcustomgun...=17&imageField2.y=11

yeah it's a windowed hood i have because i put a fiber optic front site. They break so easily that I think the hood is essential. I soldered it on so hopefully that holds. Of coarse I didn't think about the flux being acid and spilled a few drops on the barrel. so now I just have to smooth out the solder and reblue those few spots and while it's not a 505 it is a supergrade 458 win, so it has a decent amount of recoil. On a plus side, I just mounted a trijicon 1-4 30mm accupoint triangle on it and at 1 power it is so natural to keep both eyes open and the bright triangle locks on target fast. The talley quick detaches are holding the scope strong too. I tryed a few handloads today and this rifle shoots fine for me. 1" groups with all 3 loads. I can probably tune it a little tighter, but why.
It's also shooting 1" groups at 50 yards with open sites. I really am liking this rifle. Do any of you know if solder can be blued?

Solder can not be blued.

The Trijicon was an excellent choice. The older version on a Ruger 375 RMS (top one). It works great and faster at 1X with both eyes open than any other iron sight or scope.

quote:

Originally posted by Grenadier:
I'd just throw it away. I can never get them to stay on.

Yep

Drill a 1/16" hole crosswise through the front sight base in the slot where the hood tabs slide and either in front or behind the "locking tab". File a 1/16" + wide x 1/16" + deep slot across both sides of the bottom of the hood so the slot lines up with the drilled hole when the hood is located properly on its base.

Trim a 1/16" roll pin so its length just exceeds the width of the bottom of the hood when it's in place on the base and chamfer the trimmed end of the roll pin. Cold blue all modified surfaces on the hood, base and roll pin. Install the hood, carefully lining up the slot with the drilled hole in the base.

Put a small amount of grease on one end of the roll pin and drive the greased end through the hood, base and out the other side to engage the other side of the hood.

I've never had a hood slide off after doing this modification.

Dave Manson