I am trying to fit a LH safety ( possibly a Recknagel or NECG ?? ) to a '98 and, with the safety fitted, the original bolt shroud, military, won't screw in that last turn.....what am I doing wrong?



....the original and the aftermarket safeties


Roger

Have the safety lever in fire position, then you need hold the cocking piece in a vise. Grab the rear sear only.
Screw the bolt on until it stops then you need to push the bolt shroud away from the C/P loading up the spring and continue turning the bolt on until it reaches full cock pos.
The firing pin assembly basically needs to be cocked to screw the bolt on fully.

It is too long on the shaft; you can see where it is binding on the inside of the bolt shroud in your picture. File off a bit and the bolt shroud will screw all the way on. I've fit many of this type.Buhler type.
I am sure you are holding the cocking piece out with a penny; (holding it in a vise whilst trying to screw it on is really doing it the hard way); otherwise you would not be able to screw it in at all.

Metal, not sure what you mean.
Tom, both shafts are same length.

Has it anything to do with the cutouts on the end of the shaft?



Roger

Here is an easier way; hook the cocking piece over your bench and put a penny between the shroud and piece. Screw it on. Hook the cocking piece again and remove the penny.

Yes, there. File off the gouge visible in your picture and it will screw on more. That is the only thing preventing it from screwing on.
Or, if you don't believe me, coat it with some blue, marker, or anything and see if it gets rubbed off.
Tip; it's easier to fit them without the spring installed. Once you have them licked, then put the spring in.
Cutouts; no; remember that the original has to have three positions. the new one only two. More like 1.5.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by yumastepside:
Metal, not sure what you mean.
Tom, both shafts are same length.

Has it anything to do with the cutouts on the end of the shaft?



Yes. First of all the safety lever has to be in the fire position to allow the bolt to rotate fully to home position.
The tab on the end of the shaft is what locks the bolt when on safe.

Thanks Tom....obviously you haven't seen our currency I'll find a bit of copper....DOH! NEVER THOUGHT OF TAKING THE SPRING OUT FOR TEST FITS

Roger

Yes, I'm an idiot!
I realised what I was doing wrong...I was using the safety to hold the cocking piece back instead of a coin or something

Thanks again to Tom and Metal

Roger

,,,,,gotta love this forum.

That explains the gouges on the shaft. Glad you got it figured out. Don't quit your day job in case this gunsmithing gig doesn't pan out.

If your safety is too "floppy" and loose, you can tighten it with a small spring. I harvest the coil flint spring from a Bic lighter. Measure the spring diameter and select a drill bit that will give you a slight interference fit. Drill a blind hole in the shaft of the safety about amidships. Clip the spring 2-3 coils proud of the hole. Compress the spring while installing the safety to give you a snug fit. If you want to get fancy, you can install a ball detent. I have seen some of these style safeties come with a hole pre-drilled with a hard plastic insert installed. These work for a time, but the plastic wears out quickly with much use.

hard plastic insert ... all Dayton Trayster safeties use this solution ... a piece of string trimmer line works great ..