I have been lurking here for awhile and am very impressed with the info given out here. I am currently thinking of building/having built my first "custom" rifle. I think that a switch barrel rifle would be a very neat idea. I have searched the previous posts on this topic and it seems that it's not TOO hard. I was just wondering how much a project like this runs?? I was thinking of doing this on a Mauser action. Thanks for any and all advice.

Gunsmith Clyde Moore of D&D Guns, Clawson, Michigan has been doing these for awhile. Knows what he is doing. He isn't cheap but you get your money's worth. 248 583 1512

Not that I'm qualified to answer this, but I'll give it a shot. I've only been on the paying end of a project like this.

I assume you'll be doing a take-down, otherwise you'll have to remove the barreled action from the stock each time you change barrels. My advice is don't do a swap barrel, non-takedown. It just isn't worth the trouble.

You almost certainly will be using a mauser if you build this rifle. You need an action with an abuttment ring so that you can get consitant headspacing. You'll probably want an interrupted thread mechanism.

After taking the rifle apart a few hundred times, there will be a little set back. So you will want to make an allowance to tighten up the barrel at a later date (most likely your kids or grandkids will do this after you're long gone). This is no big deal unless you want sights on your barrel. Your sights will have to be able to be rotated back to the 12 o'clock position, otherwise you'll eventually be holding your rifle sideways like some East LA gangsta.

A single forearm is a hassle also because you will have to change it over each time you switch barrels. Also your light caliber barrel would have to be the same contour as your heavy caliber barrel. For example you'll end up with a too heavy 300 or 338 win mag barrel and a too light 416 Taylor barrel. Not terrible, but in a custom gun, right is nice.

So, in my opinion, this is all a little more complicated than it might seem at first blush. Now we get around to answering your question; figure an extra $1200 - $1500 for the take-down option (depending on if/how you want to do the iron sights) and an extra $1200 - $1700 for the switch barrel and forearm. Remember, there's some extra hardware in the forearm that has to be duplicated and inletted. All this is for a full custom, wood-stocked job by someone who has done it before.

I have a take-down mannlicher-stocked 6.5X55 that I love. I just try not to think about what I've got in it.

Dakota does a take-down with an extra barrel as an option. Look at www.dakotaarms.com

[This message has been edited by ForrestB (edited 11-09-2001).]

[This message has been edited by ForrestB (edited 11-09-2001).]

1_pointer,

Firstly it all depends on what is meant by a switch barrel. ForrestB has discussed the take down rifle.

Excluding take down rifles, switch barrel guns are most frequently found on either benchrest rifles or other heavy barrel accuracy guns.

In these guns, the barrel can be removed without taking the rifle apart because of the very wide barrel channel.

However if you have one of those "rubber" type synthetic stocks like on the factory Rem and Model 70s you can make the rifle so as the barrel can be removed without taking the gun apart.

However, you usually have to remove the scope and this is where detachable mounts are of use.

By having the right clearance and shape of the clearance around the back end of the barrel and in combination with the flexible stock, you can change barrels OK.

I would not regard the Mauser as the ideal action as they do not always shoot at their best unless there is an inch or so of bedding under the back end of the barrel and that has obvious problems if you want to change barrels and not have to rebed the rifle.

Rem 700s are OK if the recoil lug is pinned and the Model 70 is ideal.

As to cost, it is simply two or more chambered barrels and an action wrench and barrel vice.

Switch barrel rifles are not really about changing barrels in the field unless you are in a varmint situation.

Basically the are simply a rifle with one or more spare barrels of similar contour.

Some people also have both the 30/06 and magnum bolt face bolts.

Mike

Thanks for the replies!! I should have been less ambigious in asking my question. I am not looking for something that I can change in the field, but at home. My reasoning for wanting to do this is that I was thinking that this would be cheap way to have a couple of different calibers to play with. Custom is also a relative term. For me custom is something that is different from stock!! I'm not looking into dumping a bunch of money on this, just thought that it might be fun to play with. Thanks again for your help.

I have done this with a Rem 700. With the Rem 700 or any other that has a recoil lug held in place by the barrel, you will need to either pin the recoil lug (my gunsmith charges $40 for this) so it won't move when the barrel is tightened or you need recoil lug alignment tool (Brownells has them). Next you need to have each of the barrels set up for that rifle by your gunsmith. Next you need a barrel vise and an action wrench (both also available from Brownells or Midway). Once you have this all setup, it takes less than 5 minutes to switch barrels. Depending on how tight the barrel is torqued into the action and the type of action wrench you have, you may have to remove the scope and remove the action from the stock to switch. This may take a little longer. I use a rear entry action wrench that fits the bolt raceway and have the barrels set with minumum torque. I can change my barrels without removing the scope or the stock.

Hello,
1-Point. I am considering doing the same thing, and I think I have found the answer. Get a Savage action. The Savage, has nifty locknut setup that, from what I have read, lends itself well to tinkering. So then, all you need is a chambered barrel, gauges, the locknut spanner, and a good solid workspace. And considering your "dont want to dump a ton of money in this" remark, inexpensive way to fly.

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Safety & Ethics,Accuracy, Velocity, Energy
Joe M

Have several guns that take differant barrels brought when I thougt they were neat. I say just buy a nother gun in the cal. you want it is just a lot easier then playing around switching the barrels worry if they are going to shoot right ect.

JoeM has the right idea. Use a Savage 110 or a variant thereof.Get yourself a wrench for the barrel nut,some headspace gauges, go visit your local gunsmith and grab some Savage takeoff barrels and your in business. A local shop always has some Savage barrels going cheap.