Im thinking of fitting a Pachmayr D750 Decelerator pad, small,1" thick to my Marlin .444ss that im curently refinnishing.

Even there small pad (L= 5.30" W= 1.68") is too large and will need trim as my dimensions are L=4.62 W= 1.53" !!Although this pad has a minimum inner trim width of 1.325" figure i should be ok with it ?

What is the best method of fitting and triming it to size ???

Also the rifles butt has four holes drilled were an adjustable pad was fitted at one time, should i fill these holes ?? Epoxy ??

Englander

Englander,

I am strictly an amateur; however, this is how I fit recoil pads. I use a B-Square jig and follow the directions included with it.

Basically, the outline of the butt is scribed onto the flat surface of the pad. The pad is bolted to the jig and the top part (heel) of the pad is ground just to the scribed line on a belt sander. Then the jig is adjusted to match the angle of the bottom of the butt and the bottom (toe) of the pad is ground just to the scribed line. The sides are ground about half way with each end of the pad. My belt sander is an upright table model with an adjustable shelf to support the bottom of the jig. I make sure the shelf and the belt are at 90 degree angles to each other.
I always fill any holes already in the butt with epoxy or acraglass or sometimes wood. Then the holes for the pad at hand are drilled. When you work carefully it is possible to get a perfect fit of pad to stock.
I tried a few times to fit pads with hand held sanders and am not talented enough to do a good job without the jig. There are 2 or 3 different types of jigs available commercially and I know of a couple of guys who have built their own.
Hopefully someone with more experience and writing ability than I have will answer this also.

Good Hunting,

[ 11-30-2002, 18:52: Message edited by: ACRecurve ]

Ang-lish (said with a thick scotish accent)

Read this article, please
http://www.realguns.com/archives/052.htm

as Pachmayr makes a prefit for your gun.. but you'll need to final finish it.

jeffe

I am no gunsmith but I have fitted several recoil pads to some of my favorite rifles and shotguns. What I have done is to put several layers of 2 or 3 inch masking tape over the stock and then screw the recoil pad into place firmly. I then use a 4 X 36 Delta belt sander to make the recoil pad conform to the stock. The thickness of the tape protects the stock until I get it close in which case I use an orbital sander to get the fit even closer. Once you become comfortable you would sand until the tape becomes scuffed, that is the stop sanding signal. I have used a hand belt sander which would be clamped upside down before I bought the delta. The trick is not to rush and to sand down the top and bottom first watching that it conforms to the angles on the stock. Good luck.

Englander,

To fill and repair the holes, using a "D" letter drill, I drill a hole, just deep enough to clean up the bottom of the original hole. I take a piece of .250 hardwood dowel (something that is close to the original color) and cut it to a length .100 beyond that which is needed to fill the hole. I bevel the forward edge so it will start in the hole. I apply Titebond or Elmer Professional wood glue (don't know what you have available) to the hole and wood dowel and then with a hammer and a .250 punch, I hammer it home. Wipe off the excess glue that oozes out, and you are ready to trim.

I trim the excess with an Xacto saw, then using a bench mounted disc sander, I true the end of the stock and apply a protective finish like True Oil. Now its ready to drill and mount the pad. Good luck.

Malm

Englander,

Who sells those in the UK or are you sending to the States for them???

One tip somebody mentioned here was to freeze the recoil bad in a deep freeze for a day or two before fitting..apparently it makes the softer rubber ones easier to stand...

Regards

Pete

So far every one of my recoil pad mounting experiences has been followed by a stock refinishing experience. So I won't bother to give you any suggestions on how to do it, aside from NOT just screwing it on and shaping it with a bench mounted disc sander...

On the same topic though, how do you get the nice smooth finish on the shaped pad afterward, especially those red rubber ones?

Todd

Englander,

Order the recoil pad jig from brownells and I believe it comes with instructions on exactly how to fit the pad... Use your deep freezer for what it was intended, food storage or those occasional stuck actions where someone failed to use release agent while bedding...

Malm

I have several pad fitting jigs, but if I think I can match the wood and finish which I usually can if it is Walnut...I would prefer an absolutly perfect fit and finish and the only way to get that is finish wood and pad together with a sanding block and match the finish...If you have not done this many times then I suggest the two layers of tape and lots of caution, remove one and then get real carefull, finish with a file and cut at a slight angle away from the wood.

I have fit several by putting the 4x36" belt sander in the bench vice.

It is a much easier job when the stock is oil finished, becuase if a little stock gets taken off, just rub on some oil.

[ 12-03-2002, 19:53: Message edited by: Clark ]

My first experience was very rewarding. I used a dremel tool to put on a Pachmyer pad two weeks ago, and, if I say so myself, it was a better job than the local gun-hack did for me last time. I only touched the stock once, and that was caused by my hamfistedness. With a little practice (and a little patience), it should be a relatively easy job, unless it is on a high $ custom job. Then I'd gladly pay the money. JMO, Dutch.

I've done three the hard way (put it on, grind to match) and made some kind of goof on two of those tries.

I've done one the easy way (with the B-Square jig, just follow the instructions) and will never go back.

Key thing is to take your time, so you don't slip or overheat the pad.

John