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Bedding a Savage
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I recently got an aftermarket stock and barrel for my Savage, and need to bed it.

I have never bedded a rifle before, and I heard Savages can be finicky to bed because I need to float the tang, the nut can cause problems.

Basically, I need to know what all I should bed. I was thinking of just bedding the front part of the action including the front screw and recoil lug. Should I bed the first couple inches of the barrel also? Do I make sure the tang is floated while bedding, or can I just remove material after the bedding is done.

Thanks


Love shooting precision and long range. Big bores too!

Recent college grad, started a company called MK Machining where I'm developing a bullpup rifle chassis system.

 
Posts: 2598 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 29 March 2006Reply With Quote
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Tyler, they aren't too bad really. I would bed the portion between the rear mag box and trigger well too. Fill the grooves in the nut with some clay that will stay put before you apply a release agent. I get the clearance on the tang before I bed. I just use a feeler guage, you don't need a lot and I double check the same way when I'm done. Here is a pic of basically where I would apply bedding material.



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Posts: 6205 | Location: Cascade, MT | Registered: 12 February 2002Reply With Quote
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How do I remove the trigger assembly on an accutrigger Savage, and how easy is it to get back on?


Love shooting precision and long range. Big bores too!

Recent college grad, started a company called MK Machining where I'm developing a bullpup rifle chassis system.

 
Posts: 2598 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 29 March 2006Reply With Quote
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I haven't seen one yet up close so I don't know. Somebody should chime in.


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Posts: 6205 | Location: Cascade, MT | Registered: 12 February 2002Reply With Quote
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Tyler, PM bartsche, if anyone does, he will.
 
Posts: 3785 | Location: B.C. Canada | Registered: 08 November 2005Reply With Quote
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PM'ed him.


Love shooting precision and long range. Big bores too!

Recent college grad, started a company called MK Machining where I'm developing a bullpup rifle chassis system.

 
Posts: 2598 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 29 March 2006Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by .366torque:
Tyler, PM bartsche, if anyone does, he will.


Thanks for the vote of confidence but I've never had to bed a Savage, rifle that is, and all the lame trigger work that was done on my 12bvSS-S was done at the factory. The only Savage ( 7 Stevens 200s) trigger work I did was stoneing and honeing and modifying springs.

Sorry I can not be of more help. Frownerroger


Old age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone..
 
Posts: 10226 | Location: Temple City CA | Registered: 29 April 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Tyler Kemp:
I recently got an aftermarket stock and barrel for my Savage, and need to bed it.

I have never bedded a rifle before, and I heard Savages can be finicky to bed because I need to float the tang, the nut can cause problems.

Basically, I need to know what all I should bed. I was thinking of just bedding the front part of the action including the front screw and recoil lug. Should I bed the first couple inches of the barrel also? Do I make sure the tang is floated while bedding, or can I just remove material after the bedding is done.

Thanks



Tyler,

Bedding Savage actions can be troublesome, if you haven’t done it before. I usually bed the area just in front of the rear action screw and from the mag box forward including a couple of inches of the barrel. There are some areas that must be filled in and closed off or you will likely end up pulling some of the bedding material out when you release the action. I don’t remove the trigger. I wrap some tape around it. There is very little bedding compound needed for the rear of the action.

There are actually five spots that you must prepare before bedding. These areas are from the mag box forward. I fill four of them with clay and cover the fifth with a layer of tape.

In no particular order, the “cutout†for the mag box tabs must be filled. I press clay into the cutout, and contour with a stick.



Going forward on the action you will see a recess for the index tab. Fill this with clay.



On the other side of the lug you will see another recess that must be filled.



Last is the barrel nut. If you don’t fill the recesses in the barrel nut, you will pull out some of the bedding and will end up with a gap around the nut. Also, there is some space between the nut collar and the barrel that must be closed off, or the bedding will be pressed between them and you will have to remove the nut to get it out. I fill the nut recesses with clay and then take one layer of clear cellophane tape and wrap it around the nut, making sure it seals the nut collar to barrel opening. This forms a perfectly circular “nut†that will release from the bedding and give you a very nice job.





I apply one layer of tape to the front and bottom of the lug and then apply release agent to the whole works. The tape on the lug will give you just a little room for later.

Good luck, I am sure it will come out great.

Jim


Please be an ethical PD hunter, always practice shoot and release!!

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Posts: 731 | Location: NoWis. | Registered: 04 May 2004Reply With Quote
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i bed a savage almost every night. after you get your strength and endurance built up it's not bad at all.


blaming guns for crime is like blaming silverware for rosie o'donnell being fat
 
Posts: 1213 | Location: new braunfels, tx | Registered: 04 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Tyler,

Wow! Whew!

Other than that, Jim gave you the Ultimate Savage Bed.....except for the thread above it doesn't get any better than that IMO.

The only two things I'd like to add to Jim's magnificant tome is; Yes, I don't bed the area between the magazine well and trigger but do reinforce it with a cross bolt (simply epoxie a screw with two nuts it into the area first and let the rest take it's course when bedding).

Secondly, the rear tang gets a measured & exactly cut pillar between the trigger guard and upper tang, so that I don't bend the action which can EASILY be done when bedding Savage's (expereince speaking).


Cheers,

Number 10
 
Posts: 3433 | Location: Frankfurt, Germany | Registered: 23 December 2004Reply With Quote
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Perfect post pdhunter! Thank you so much.

As it turns out, I get to go over to a gunsmith's this weekend, he has been helping me, as I don't have some of the tools required. (Only 16 Frowner) He has done a ton of gun work, so I think if anyone will do a good bedding job, it will be him. I will show him your post. I'll make sure and report back next week!


Love shooting precision and long range. Big bores too!

Recent college grad, started a company called MK Machining where I'm developing a bullpup rifle chassis system.

 
Posts: 2598 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 29 March 2006Reply With Quote
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