I am looking at a drilling where the front claws on the scope mount are just a little loose. I would like a bit more tension. Rather than going to the trouble and time of having them tig welded and recutting would a couple of sharp blows with a hammer on the base spread metal enough to tighten. I would of course do this with the scope still attached.

Another althernative could be to use a metal filled epoxy bearing material and to put a thin skim and then file it up.

Any thoughts please gentlemen.

I am no expert on claw mounts, but I an not sure that a layer of steel-bed epoxy that thin would hold up...

What about plating a bit of chrome or electroless nickel on the claws and on the interior of the base? That might be enough to tighten it up, and should also provide some wear resistance. That might cause some issues if you ever did have to weld and refit, though.

Do not hammer on them. Do not use epoxy; that won't last on and off.
Like Red said. Have them plated.
Or I would coat the sides with tin/ silver solder, as a quick and more permanent way.

Side to side ? There should be just a tittle upward tension before the rear locks up.

That tension can be remedied with a bit of "cold forming" i.e. bending the claws slightly

Yes, you'd need an "impact transfer device" (Hee hee) be sure to install a solid bar in place of the scope before you do this. In the process, you can't help but widen the area slightly, which may get you back on the road.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Side to side ? There should be just a tittle upward tension before the rear locks up.

That tension can be remedied with a bit of "cold forming" i.e. bending the claws slightly

Yes, you'd need an "impact transfer device" (Hee hee) be sure to install a solid bar in place of the scope before you do this. In the process, you can't help but widen the area slightly, which may get you back on the road.

Thanks Duane - installed a solid bar on the the front mount. Half a dozen taps on the claws with a tappy tappy impact device and now a good bit of tension again. No movement at all side to side on the front mount from about 15 degrees off fully down, and in its fully down position its absolutely solid. The rear mount is also nice tight in the locking mechanism and there is a little bit of tension required to lock it down. So all happy.

Unfortunately I cant open with that. But I can raise your "happy tapping" and your "impact transfer device" with a piece of round bar in the lower ring portion and a light "squishy wishy" in a smooth jaw vise?

he he

Ahaw! the old get a bigger hammer trick, Smithys been doing that for years..hopefully your skilled with a big hammer..

I was of the opinion that proper claw mounts were designed to take up the slack as it occurred? maybe they made good claws and bad cheap claws, dunno but would like to be advised and explain the process.