I remember reading a photo caption is some custom rifle book about the pictured stock being finished with crazy glue. Anybody tried it?

crazy glue 4 grams is $1.87

16oz is 455 grams is $212.00

I wouldn't recommend crazy glue for a hand rubbed finish.

Crazy Glue sounds, well, crazy, but I have finished wood arrows with a mix of long-set epoxy and acetone. Several very thin swipes and you have an impermeable finish. I believe the late Jay Massey finished bows that way as well.

I have finished literally hundreds of areas up to the size of a full comb or a cheek piece with superglue. I have never finished a full stock with it but some of my counterparts and a couple hobby guys I know routinely finish entire stocks with it. It has been used in the furniture industry for touch up work decades. It takes about $20 worth of superglue to finish a stock. It is also widely used in the hobby industry for finishing pen bodies and wooden figurines. It is also gaining popularity with knife makers for handle finish. It is also now available in several shades of color from black, brown, amber, white with more coming every year. I go through about 6 bottles of amber per year.

http://www.starbond.com/colored-ca.html

Wow, now I have heard everything. I do learn something new every decade or so.

About 3 years ago a buddy wanted to see how superglue was used to finish wood. I took this 1-1/2 x 2 and held it against a #100 belt until all the lines went one way and then applied and scuff sanded about 3 coats of superglue and 15 minutes later rubbed it out. It has been bouncing around on my bench amid screwdrivers and gunparts ever since. I see Perazzis, Brownings and other trap guns that I knocked the combs down on 20 years ago and refinished with superglue that are still coming back for cleaning and maintenance that are still no worse for wear. The colored superglue can only be taken to a satin finish. The clear can be taken to a semi gloss with no trouble.

The simple thing to do is to just try it. Get a bottle of the cheap, Satellite City Super glue, a block of walnut, some 600 wet & dry to scuff it down with and common rubbing compound. Put on a coat with rubber gloves or non-fuzzing patch material and a hemostat, let it harden, scuff to smooth the finish level, repeat until you build up a couple thousandths of an inch and then buff it out. The same as any other finish except it takes a minute to harden instead of 750 minutes.

I forgot to add, if you want the satin oil finish found on the current Perazzi shotguns or used by some custom makers. Rub the finish out with 600 wet & dry paper and True Oil and buff with a rag. Then set it aside for a day for the True Oil to harden and you're good to go.

super glue by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr

Current price list.

Used to use super glue to finish pens about 15 years ago. The couple I still have still have a nice finish.
Don

quote:

Originally posted by Don Markey:
Used to use super glue to finish pens about 15 years ago. The couple I still have still have a nice finish.
Don

As I understand it, The Lee Valley Tools, Holly Hobby crowd likes it because they can take fancy oil woods like cocobolo, purple heart and ebony and so long as they de-grease them with lacquer thinner first, the cyanoacrylates will actually soak into and fill the dried cells of the wood and catch a toe hold so tight that rampaging equines couldn't pull it off. Other glues or epoxies seem to rely on the texture of the object being glued to catch and anchor hold.

Superglue/cynocrylate/Crazy Glue has been used as a stock finish for my 35 years in the industry. One well known name to do so is Paul Dressel. I also have used it on jobs that were time sensitive. I have used it to repair Browning high gloss finish and IF leveled/polished well, it is almost invisible.

I wonder how it would work on a
Sako laminate stock? I've go one with a good scratch on the buttstock. It came
From from the edge of a concrete bench, and is into but through the finish.

I remember reading an article years ago about how to finish a custom knife handle with super glue bar a hard, durable finish. It involved a bunch of finger cots and rubbing multiple thin coats on,s

I have finished some pistol grips and a couple of laminated stocks in Red Label Brownells Accuglass, one for an Alaskan and the other for a bench rest rifle..Its too shiney for my taste, kinda like Licorice. Its a good idea to delute it a bit and use two coats..

Im sure its a hell of a lot cheaper than using Gorilla glue, Crazy Glue or whatever...and Im betting it will craze in time and is probably brittle after a while.

At one time I did a stock in that waterproofing stuff you do decks and porches with, came in a red and white can..It actually turned out real nice with a dull sheen, and has lasted the owner nearly 40 years now!! that said I just use Gun Sav R from Brownells for the most part these days..I still try something new from time to time..

Glue, glass bedding etc is nothing that I would want on one of my rifles..I like some kind of modified Urathane, or a hard filler sanded back to wood and Linseed Oil with a dryer, Linseed is still the best looking finish out there, although on a using rifle I prefer Gun Save R, and maybe the last two finishing coats to be Linseed with a dryer to get that look.

Ray PM sent