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Ruger #1 rebarreling...
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Any gunsmiths rebarrel a Ruger #1? I wonder if any particular problems to remover old barrel & replace it?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
 
Posts: 287 | Location: Cody, Wyoming | Registered: 02 July 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by white bison:
Any gunsmiths rebarrel a Ruger #1? I wonder if any particular problems to remover old barrel & replace it?
Thanks in advance,
Tom


Done a few. Just make sure you pull the rib, locator pins and extractor.


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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The flat head allen screws that hold the rib on and the dowell pins there are a real PITA to remove and they need to be removed with the rib to get the barrel off. I take a 1/4" pin punch and give each of the screws a good whack before trying to remove them. I think what happens is that tends to "stretch" them a bit so they loosen easier. As for the dowel, I drill and tap them for a small screw and then remove them with a puller, a slide hammer type that I've made. Not to worry, when reinstalling them, just reverse them; they are blued on both sides.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5523 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Hi: Thanks for tips...quite valuable to me...
Now, next question...would it be sensible or practical to have the original barrel rebored, rerifled to
a larger bore & then rechambered?
Specifically...I want to rebore the .22-250 barrel (heavy weight for a .22) to a .256 Newton (6.5mm cal.
i thought it would be simpler to use the original barrel, keep the outside barrel contour for the foreend
size...but maybe not..
I already have a .256 Newton in the original rifle, and like the cartridge's capabilities...plus the
brass, reloading dies, etc. And I can use the Ruger #1 in a .256 Newton, whereas here in Wyoming, the
.22-250 can't be used for hunting, only varmints...and I can use the .256 Newton for my Antelope hunting,
as well as varmints too. Otherwise my .22-250 is just gathering dust in my gun cabinet...

Any opinions here?

Thanks again,

Tom
 
Posts: 287 | Location: Cody, Wyoming | Registered: 02 July 2006Reply With Quote
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I personall don't think it practical or sensible from a cost standpoint or practical stance. It would cost more than you care to get it rebored/rifled. Why go with the factory barre when you could rebarrel it with a good custom barrel.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5523 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Hi: I thought it would be easier to get it rebored & rerifled..the barrel is already threaded for the receiver, same contour for the forend...just rebore, rerifle, rechamber, index it back to specs for the new chambering...
Tom
 
Posts: 287 | Location: Cody, Wyoming | Registered: 02 July 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by white bison:
Hi: I thought it would be easier to get it rebored & rerifled..the barrel is already threaded for the receiver, same contour for the forend...just rebore, rerifle, rechamber, index it back to specs for the new chambering...
Tom


Reboring a barrel carries certain risks that a shiny new barrel with the correct diameter bore doesn't. And you can have the contour of the old barrel copied. Unless it's a rare piece, or, an expensive one to duplicate, myself, I wouldn't do it. But it's your gun, and your money...


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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White Bison,
Really the only concerns with a rebore would be the history of the barrel and the attaching holes for the quarter rib.
If the barrel has been an ok shooter it will continue that performance as a rebore, and most likely somewhat better. If it has been a problem child with signs of stresses etc, a rebore will not cure those ailments.
The other issue is very common on Rugers..if they had wall thickness they tend to use a bunch of it to drill and tap and drill for the q-rib studs. The holes tend to be very deep. We always measure to determine what the remaining wall thickness will be over the intended new groove diameter.

It sounds as though there must be some kind of problem getting correct dimensions when performing a rebore? We are not aware of the problem, as everyone in the shop is fully capable of reading measuring equipment. Contrary to popular belief, barrelmaking is not voodoo or black magic. It's paying attention to details, knowing correct machining practices and maintaining tooling. Everyone I know that is or was reboring, does so with a the single point cut-rifling method. It is no different than the process used by some of the top barrel makers today.... who have no difficulty maintaining dimensions.

Another common misconception is the cost. A rebore can run $135 to $350 - $400, depending on who you have do it, and the extent of the project. I have said it before, but in our shop a re-barrel is $247.50 for standard calibers, plus a barrel (approx. $150 to $350). It will generally cost more to rebarrel. I have also said before...there are a lot of guys that rebarrel for less than we can (labor cost)

I hope this information will help with your original question. Take your time gathering info, and talk with some of the guys doing the work. Check with your local gunmakers and see what their experiences have been.
 
Posts: 105 | Registered: 20 June 2004Reply With Quote
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Hi: Thanks all & Jim:

I now have had my second thoughts on reboring & have decided it better & makes more sense (as you have said!)
to have a new barrel installed...
I once had another brainstorm to have a rifle barrel lightened by having it cut to a smaller outside taper
to shave some weight. The barrel was a heavier sporter type. Well, the gunsmith cut the barrel to a lighter
taper as I requested...I saved approx. 1/4 pound.
But previously the rifle was a tack driver...super accurate...after the outside reduced in size, it no
longer shot accurately as before. Reason? Dunno. Maybe changed the barrel stresses? Or added some.
But, I'll never do that again!

Thanks for advice given...I'm taking it!

Tom
 
Posts: 287 | Location: Cody, Wyoming | Registered: 02 July 2006Reply With Quote
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