I am bedding a Mauser rifle with Devcon (w/ added stainless steel) tonight. I made one small 'oops' when I forgot the smooth out the bead of epoxy in the barrel channel (full length bedding it). So, I lifted the barrelled action out of the stock, about 3 seconds after I first put it in. In has three coats of carnauba paste wax on it, the last thin and not wiped off. Some of the wet epoxy was sticking to it. My first thought was 'oh sh*t' but then I decided to just plop it back in and hope the wax I put on was enough.

Do you think it's permanently bedded?

Todd

Todd, I had the same thing happen to me once, only I said oh fu#*! After the expoxy had cured, it popped out just like nothin' ever happened. I don't think you'll have a problem.

What Craigster said.

I don't think you'll have a problem either, so you can get a good night sleep now<G>.

Todd, it sticks as a gel or whatever because of the fact that it is gooey. Okay enuf of the scientific lingo. When it is solid it will release. Btw, devcon has no advantage over any epoxy for bedding purposes.

Well, it did come out ok. Unfortunately I put a little too much epoxy in the barrel channel, and had to sand it back out. I may just smooth out the barrel channel, and bed it with a little pressure at the forend tip. I still need to even out the inletting of the bottom metal with a little epoxy, so I'll do it then. There was also an unfortunately placed void in the center of the recoil lug area that will need some spot fill.

I tried Devcon because I had an unsatisfactory experience with Acragel, with may have been my fault as much as anything. It remained quite soft and plastic, and deformed easily under recoil - in fact fingernail pressure would deform it. The only disadvantage to Devcon was that I could only buy it in white, so even with a high density of added stainless steel powder and black dye, it is still just a dark gray.

Overall, quite happy. Thanks for the reassuring comments.

Todd

[ 10-13-2003, 16:57: Message edited by: Todd Getzen ]

Acraglas Gel requires accurate mixing and curing above 70 degrees for good results. Humidity also affects the cure. Best place to bed rifles is in the hot dry Southwest!!!

I have a heat station, with a rack for 4 rifles and infared heat lamps above. Lamps spaced above the rack to bring the metal up to about 100 to 105 degrees. Cures just fine. This is required here in the cool damp Pacific NW. It cures rock hard in 8 hours with this treatment.

As Chic says, Devcon has no advantage. I have used everything made for bedding and a lot of stuff that is not made for bedding.

I mostly use Steel Bed and Pro Bed 2000 for fiberglas stocks. Acraglas Gel for wood, but the heavy kickers get Steel Bed or Pro Bed 2000.

A common error with the heavy viscous epoxies like Acraglas Gel and steel bed is the barrel is not pulled down into the epoxy while curing. I have some photos somewhere on a diskett that shows a way around this. If you do not pull the barrel down into the bedding, you will wind up with a lot of up force on the barrel when the bedding is cured.

You gotta be careful with Pro Bed 2000, it does not shrink and will positively lock the action in the stock if precautions are not taken. And, if you cure warm as I do, it flows very easy and goes everywhere. Have to be creative with the clay to keep it put.

Check those M70 recoil lugs, some are tapered the wrong way and will lock the action in the stock. I usually put a slight taper on the sides of the lug and check the front and back for the wrong taper.

I always build up the front and sides of a recoil lug with tape. This helps with removal, after the bedding and later when cleaning. Easy to do, just wrap and cut off at the rear of the lug for contact. I use acraglass gel almost exculsively. It stays put and as long as mixed correctly sets up slowly, a real benefit when I'm doing the work. Also it seems to handle shock better than devcon, which seems to brittle to me.. although there are many that use it. I usually mix atomized aluminum with the acraglass to reenforce it even more. The wax is an excellant release agent the real danger is a mechanical lock. Any bonding that may take place unless its extensive can be broken by freezing the piece and applying heat to the metal. Also when spot filling be sure to thoroughly clean the hole(I use a bit of acetone) as the polyester material will exude something that seems to limit bonding of the next coat..

[ 10-13-2003, 20:20: Message edited by: gunnut69 ]