Negative!! If it's not Krieger, it's crap!

I have to agree with others on this one. I would check something else besides the barrel first. Remington made that rifle quite awhile ago, if it is still all factory, and most all of their barrels back then showed very fine accuracy when all else was right.

I also agree with Bill on the best barrel. It pretty much turns into a popularity contest nowdays especially if it is for a hunting rifle.

So far I've only used Shilen and have been very happy. I've got a M98 in the works right now that'll be wearing a Lothar-Walther when finished, But I haven't had the chance to shoot it yet.

Michael Scherz is about to start on my "heirloom" rifle and say's I'd be hard pressed to beat a Douglas barrel. I'll generally go with what the smith suggests.

Terry

Lilja also makes excellent barrels.

Kory

I make a living putting barrels on rifles so, I probably shouldn't ask this question, but, what makes you think the barrel is the problem? If the rifle shoots acceptable groups this month and, twevle months from now, shoots the same group at a different point of impact, ("I'm having a hard time keeping it zeroed from season to season"), I would be suspect of the bedding or forend pressure. If the stock is wood (Remington Classic) the forend could be moving and causing pressure on the barrel. Just because a rifle has been bedded and floated does not assure that a thin sporter forend will not warp with changing humidity. Has the barrel channel been re-sealed after floating? Have you checked the action screws for tightness?
I just hate to see someone spend money on a "fix" that they don't need. Good Luck.

Bob, As stated before.....Check the barrel fit, then change scopes. Try a different one and see if the POI still moves!.....Check the base screws, also........

Try Danny Pedersen at Cutrifle.com. I have 5 of his barrels from .510 to .308. I haven't finished the .510 but the rest shoot quite well.

Have to agree with the previous post. I've had "bad" and shot-out barrels, but have never had to "re-zero" them from one season to the next.

Shilen is hard to beat, Pac-Nor is good, MRC is good, Hart makes are really good barrel. IF you stay with any of those guys you should come out just fine.

I am less qualified than others on this forum, being only an amateur rebarreller, but I have done a few each of Lothar Walther, Shilen, and Adams and Bennet barrels.



In Chrome moly [non stainless barrels] Lothar Walther is factory hand lapped, and Shilen are not, unless special ordered. This makes my couple of LW barrels drastically superior to my couple of Shilen barrels.



I believe that a very poor barrel will shoot great groups until it copper fouls or warps until it cools down.



I believe a superior barrel is factory hand lapped to prevent copper fouling and speed the cleaning of what little fouling occurs.

I believe a superior barrel is stress relieved so the barrel does not change shape when warm.



My rating for Chrome Moly barrel brands:

Lothar Walther A

Shilen as shipped by Brownell's B

Addams and Bennet F, D, C, or B with wide variations in quality



--

Be careful what you pray for, it can happen.

Clark,

The last time I spoke with Woody at Lothar he told me they had taken delivery of a CNC lapping machine. He said the machine first mapped the barrel and then used that information to lap the barrel.



In my opine, this type of lapping is superior to hand lapping.



I own two Lothar barrels. For Quality and price they are a great value!

Rusty,--or anyone else--where would one go to purchase Lothar Walther barrels. I will do an internet search as well, just wondering if any recommendations.

Bob, IMO a rifle that changes zero from one season to the next is suffering from stock problems due to absorption or loss of moisture in the cells of the wood, NOT A BARREL PROBLEM! A barrel problem would showe up from one shot to the next shot. I would NOT rebarrel this rifle! But I might work on action and barrel bedding.