I`ve heard that the earlier Sakos may be prone to firing
on closing the bolt.I think this is called "following fire"
(I associate "slam fire" with semi-auto & automatic rifles,
so correct me if I`m wrong)Is that true?
The above brought me a memory that someone here on AR
(Bill Leeper,IIRC)once said that it`s possible to make
a loaded and cocked Sako fire by merely rapping the bolt
with a piece of wood.
Question is-Does it happen also to the Sakos with the
latter-type enclosed bolt shrouds,or is possible only with
those having the cocking piece exposed?
Comments appreciated
Oh!To avoid confusion: A1,A2,A3 = Vixen,Forester,Finnbear

I know that no sane shooter would be banging his rifle
with a stick,but IMO every firearm ought to fire ONLY when
the trigger is pulled and the safety is OFF!
Otherwise it`s just an accident waiting to happen and
a tragedy lurking behind.

Regards
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If you adjust a Sako trigger too light then the sear will not resist an impact or even moving the safety to fire.

This is generaly tested by cycling the action hard and simulating a blow by banging the butt on the floor (note ensure the stock screws are done up or you will crack your stock - ask Deerdogs)

It is possible to get a safe 2lbs if you know what you are doing. Care needs to be taken with the spring weight as too little spring weight, oil in trigger and cold weather are not a happy mix (the oil causes drag which a weak spring cannot overcome and the rifle fires on shutting the bolt)

I had my trigger professionaly done, it is 1lb 14z and is safe to the above test and when recovered from the freezer at -12celcius. This is probably about the limit.

Like many triggers Sakos will reduce trigger pull weight on subsequent shots, my own drops by about 2oz.

1894 is dead on.

The Sako is an excellent trigger, but like fine rifles, each is an individual. Most will safely adjust down to 2 pounds, but some of mine just won't go that low without exhibiting potential problems.

As suggested, when adjusting a Sako trigger, slam the bolt into battery HARD multiple times to make sure that the sear ALWAYS catches. Then engage the safety, pull hard on the trigger, then disengage the safety to make sure that you get no inappropriate occurance with this test. In other words, subject your Sako to very harsh handling to assure that the sear holds in every instance.

There is no difference in the L-series and the A-series insofar as the operation of the trigger/sear. Neither is "safer" than the other in this regard.

Thanks for the replies gentlemen.
Very informative.

Good shooting.