I need some ideas as mine are not producing any results yet.
I had a Browning Invictor plus BPS 12G brought in that has a stuck choke. actually I am wondering if it has grown in.
The owner said it has not been removed since he got it in 2001.
At this point I have plugged the muzzle and poured it full of Kroils oil intermediately heating it with a heat gun then letting it cool. Tried freezing and they heating the barrel no luck so far. I did make a wrench with hardened pins to help in removal. I have been messing with it for a week like this.
I wonder if anyone might have another idea. Saving the choke is not necessary option as he wants to change to turkey chokes.

A very old trick used when choke tubes first went from lead to steel....glass bed an 8" steel rod in the tube. Grab with vise grips or before bedding make parallel flats on the exposed end and use a big Crescent wrench for leverage.

Make sure you degrease the choke tube inside and make sure it has a little ruffage for the glue to grip on on the rod too.

Of course the barrel is placed in a padded vise that will hold it still and not twist as you are applying torque.

quote:

Originally posted by Dennis Earl Smith:
A very old trick used when choke tubes first went from lead to steel....glass bed an 8" steel rod in the tube. Grab with vise grips or before bedding make parallel flats on the exposed end and use a big Crescent wrench for leverage.

Make sure you degrease the choke tube inside and make sure it has a little ruffage for the glue to grip on on the rod too.

Of course the barrel is placed in a padded vise that will hold it still and not twist as you are applying torque.

This is the sure fire way. I use 5/8 and 3/4 hex head cap screws dedicated for this purpose. De-grease the inside, bead blast the threads on the screws, and hold the barrel in a barrel vise and they all come out. After its out, heat it up with a propane torch til the glue starts to smoke and stink and the screw will knock out easily. 99% of the time you can save the choke tube. If they fired steel in a tube meant for only lead, it is deformed and needs replacing.

I had a browning bps brother the guy used as a funnel to pour gas into truck put behind and left I soared in krill and got a big easy out the brownell sell and it came right out have used on a lot of stuck choke tube it does not hurt tube

The Browning/Miroku invector choke tubes are threaded at the bottom so an eziout applied at the muzzle end of the choke (thicker end as well) is not going to damage or lock the thread in the barrel or choke tube anymore than it already is.

Not sure what type of choke wrench is supplied with the Brownings but the Miroku wrench for the identical invector chokes locates into the four notches and has a short handle one side which you can give a good tap to with a small hammer while holding the wrench down into the slots with your thumb. This is more likely to shock the choke tube loose.
I use this method when installing my Miroku chokes, just a light rap with a screw driver handle on the wrench handle. Tubes never come loose and a light rap to undo them. I do apply a smear of never-seize grease to the choke threads without fail too.

After eliminating all the wrong ways to remove a stuck tube, I have found THE way. I've had lots of practice as Benelli shotguns and waterfowl hunting are very popular in western Missouri. If you can get a rusted Benelli tube out, everything else is a piece of cake.

Brownell's now sells a choke removal tube for less than $10 that is actually nothing more than a big-ass Mayhew screw extractor. You can probably source one elsewhere for less but you would need the exact size. I can look that up if you need it. It is a tapered square with sharp corners biased to remove right hand thread. Do not try a standard easy-out with the helix teeth. The helix is designed to tighten as you turn it counterclockwise and WILL flare the muzzle of the shotgun.

Lock the barrel in a padded vise. (Barrel vise for a single barrel.)

Gentling tap the extractor into the choke. The trick is to tap it in hard enough to get a bite, but not become a swaging tool.

Turn it with a large tap handle. If the tool turns in the tube, STOP. Reset it with your mallet.

Once the tube is out, clean the barrel thread with oil and a stiff brush. The tube is more than likely trash. I've had to chase the threads on occasion but that is rare. Use anti-seize without fail.

You don't need to save the tube? Set it up in the lathe and bore it out.

i went through that some years ago... it played hell and a week or so soaking in kroil and lots of persuasion before it finally gave up and loosened up.

What I learned since... NEVER screw a choke into a barrel without using a dab of never-seize... i have use the copper type use for automotive as well as the nickel. Never had the problem again..

Maybe try a choke tube wrench that you can adapt it to an impact driver, after soaking it of course in Kroil.

This is still an ongoing project I am trying any and all ideas to save the barrel.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
You don't need to save the tube? Set it up in the lathe and bore it out.

I would do this only as a very last resort as your lathe set up and work would have to be extremely exacting to prevent damaging the very fine thread in the barrel. Shave the tops of the thread as you can afford to do on coarse threads but in this instance and there is not much left.

Even if successful in turning out the choke body the remaining interlocked threads maybe difficult to pick out without damaging the fine barrel threads.

If all else fails might have to be the way to go.

An accurate setup is important. One needs to indicate the ID of the tube to run true, not a small task. Use another of the same make tubes and measure it to get a dimension to bore to. Picking out the threads left is a piece of cake.

I have had good luck with the Brownell's tool. Destroy's the tube but works well.

They make Easy-outs for removing broken pipe nipples. Should be about the right size for choke tubes.

Would some one give me the contact information on the company that is I believe in Texas. I need to send this barrel out to get the choke tube out. I do not want to ruin the barrel.
I did make a wrench out of hex stock turned to fit the tube with hardened pins to fit the slots. Even with an impact wrench with a end wrench to back it up still will not budge. Its been soaking in Kroils for two weeks Since a replacement barrel is over $350 I need an expert.

I do not see it list but I would contact http://users.dls.net/~rdouglas/MikeOrlen.pdf He seems to be held in high regard.

Contact Trey or Dustin at Southland Gun Works in Darlington, SC.

southlandgunworks@sc.rr.com

They are a Browning service center. I work there and we have special tools to remove it.

Bob

Bobster
I will give them a call on Monday,
Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by Dennis Earl Smith:
A very old trick used when choke tubes first went from lead to steel....glass bed an 8" steel rod in the tube. Grab with vise grips or before bedding make parallel flats on the exposed end and use a big Crescent wrench for leverage.

Make sure you degrease the choke tube inside and make sure it has a little ruffage for the glue to grip on on the rod too.

Of course the barrel is placed in a padded vise that will hold it still and not twist as you are applying torque.

This is a brilliant idea and one which I would not have thunk-up on my own. I'm putting this in my memory-bank.

Zeke

Any update on progress, always nice to know the resolution for learning sake.