Hi, i have just bought an old unfired Brno 602 in .375 hh ( peep sight in reciever). It has very bad wood to metal fitting especially in the back.
I am afraid that the stock will crack when fired. Now to my question, i am thinking about bedding it, should it be bedded like a "normal" rifle or shuld i bed the extra front lug too ? What is the extra front lug used for ? Necessary ?

"First time powerful rifle owner"

Yes you should bed the front lug as well. It is there to help spread the recoil force throughout the stock, thereby lessening the stress on any single point. - Dan

I think there is supposed to be a little space between the tang and the stock in the rear, and if there isn't, tye stock will crack. I probably read this someplace, and remembered it because I have a CZ .416 which hasn't cracked and does have the space.

Probably ought to check this out with some buddy who knows. That ain't me.

Ok, so there should be space between the tang and stock. This fitting was exactly what i worried about.
Guess i�ll shoot it first too see how it shoots and bed it if necessary.
Thank�s guys

Tippex Yes you should bed that front recoil lug but pay attention to what you are doing.If you get too much bedding compound in there it may get up into the dovetail on the bottom of the barrel. If that happens you will have one hell of a time getting the barreled action out of the stock.I fill that dovetail with paste wax to prevent this.

Both of my 602 have the front recoil lug bedded,both shoot better with this screw left loose.

Martin

Tippex,a 602 with peep sight,a dream...
Hugh.

hd352802 -Not just a dream but an still unfired dream. The guy who had it didn�t want to pay about 80$ for 20 box of ammo. So he kept it unfired until he realized he would never be able to use it.
Martin@Hin is your screw attached and loose tightened or just left out ? Does anyone else have experience with this ?
And should the rifle be bedded in one stroke, everything at the same time or should it be bedded step by step with hardening between the rear lug and front lug. Recono said that there should be a space between the tang and the wood. Should this space be kept when bedding ?

Tippex,

Ditto what snoman said about the dovetail under the front lug, you will be in a world of hurt if you get any bedding compound in there.

I bedded mine in two stages; the front and the rest.

For the front I gouged (carefully) away enough wood so the bedding goo would flow easily, I mixed about 30% bronze powder into it so it was pretty stiff. I cleaned all the metal and applied electricians tape to the sides and bottom of the front lug covering as much as I could nice and smooth. The face of the lug which butts against the metal "L" insert I left with no tape on. I then covered all with two coats of bedding release that came with Brownells kit. The difficult part here is not to get the bedding compound in the screwhole, to accomplish this I used some putty and made a little dam around it and watched how much epoxy I put around it. Regarding the metal "L" insert; I removed wood from behind it so I could bury the thing in bedding epoxy, when the time came I simply filled the recess with epoxy and pushed it down in.

Once that was done I removed enough wood around the sides of the receiver to make sure I would get compound all around it and everything turned out well. If you get the epoxy in the mag well don't worry about it you can use a file and get it out, the problem is glueing your rifle together, that would be bad, I have done this and it is no fun.

Since I am on that subject I will tell you a little story about when I bedded my ZKK.

I had not been careful regarding the flow of epoxy into the front lug dovetail. After about 6 hours of curing I attempted to remove the barreled action from the wood, it did not move at all. Sticking my finger into the bolt raceway under the rear bridge and heaving on the butt I was able to see the receiver move about 1/16" (2mm), I did not know if I was flexing the wood or what. I tried using my thumbs pushing down on both sides of the forearm while holding onto the barrel and this didn't work either. Somewhat frantic now I thought how I could get enough of a purchase on the stock to really work on the metal. This is when I noticed the front sling swivel, it was still in the stock and of course not attached to the barrel, this would be my fulcrum. I took some soft iron wire and made about 4-5 loops through the swivel, then removed my belt and inserted that through the loops. I then slung the belt over my shoulder guitar-strap style. All was ready. I was doing this in my university dorm room which was rather Spartan in furnishings so I knelt on the floor, took hold of the muzzle of the barrel (I was going to push on the barrel while the belt would hold the stock via the swivel so I could push them apart) flexed my pectoral muscles and gave a manly push at which the unsecured butt of the stock swung right up into my testicles. Ok, so I'm a chemistry major not a physics guy...I didn't see it coming (no pun intended).
After I was able to get my stomach back down my throat to where it belonged I stuffed a towel between my legs and gingerly placed the butt against the towel, I flexed my pectoral muscles and with some trepidation again gave a manly push. With a loud CRACK the assembly seperated into two parts. I actually thought I had broken the wood but upon closer inspection a small finger of epoxy had managed to flow into the front dovetail recess. A very small finger, I recall it was ridiculous, something like the width of the dovetail and only 1/4" (5mm). That epoxy is strong stuff. I have been very careful on my subsequent jobs.