Hi just a query on a Turkish M1938 action chambered for the 458WM what are these actions like, strength wise, I found the above rifle and would like to buy it, feels good and some nice gunsmithing, what are your thought's on it, thanks

Is this a K. Kales '98?

Not sure but I went and bought it and it's with my gunsmith now he said it has a good action and the 25.5" barrel was near new, just getting it slicked up, peep sight, barrel band, new trigger etc, I paid the equivalent of US$400 and about the same for the smithing, so I reckon I've got a good deal thanks

I shot these handloads in 2002 in this 1938 Turkish Mauser K. Kale action.



The rough bored Addams and Bennet barrel Copper fouled more and more with each shot, driving the pressure up. The action was ok, but the barrel is getting scrapped.

tnekkcc,

Tell us about your tooling. Is that what you use to face off the receiver?

quote:

Originally posted by tracks:
Hi just a query on a Turkish M1938 action chambered for the 458WM what are these actions like, strength wise, I found the above rifle and would like to buy it, feels good and some nice gunsmithing, what are your thought's on it, thanks

If it turns out that your receiver is one of the small ring threaded Turkish Mausers, I would be apprehensive about shooting it. Chambering a small ring threaded barrel for a belted magnum just doesn't leave you with much steel wrapped around the case. Others may say differently, but IMO I wouldn't want to shoot it.

But...if you got a Turkish Mauser whose receiver is large ring thread, no worries - blast away!

quote:

Originally posted by ireload2:
tnekkcc,

Tell us about your tooling. Is that what you use to face off the receiver?

That is my brother's tooling and my 1938 Turkish Mauser receiver.

He cut threads on the mandrel and braised together a dog.
It can be done easier.
link to a picture of MY mandrel and a 1903 Turkish Mauser receiver

I simply took some 3/4" round 4140 RC28 and turned it down to ~.700" with a few thousandths taper for a snug fit. I then drill and tap tap a hole into the mandrel to take the torque. One end is counter sunk for the live center in the tailstock, and the other is in the 6 jaw chuck on the headstock. The receiver tang can also take some torque if lodged between chuck jaws.

Both my brother and I cut with a home ground Cobalt bit in a quick change tool post. Just like for cutting threads.