Working on a well worn 11-48 SN 522xxxx with the following issues:

- Does not extract/eject when fired, leaves empties in chamber. Manual operation extracts and ejects fine.
- Breaks carrier dogs, Dychem shows aft end of bolt rubbing the dog and pushing into the trigger group, eventually breaking it. Relieved dog and so far no breakage.
- Links jump out of action spring follower after shooting a few rounds. Cleaned tube and change follower and spring. No help.
- Locking bolt appears normal with no evident excess wear. Stamped with letter A.

Any ideas as how to correct?

Take off the stock and check the spring for the bolt. Also don't shoot it totally dry. A very light coat of oil on the magazine tube might help.

OK, checked spring against schematic and serial number. My resource says the recoil spring in my gun was supposed to have a brass sleeve on one end. This spring has only the spring combined with a reversible friction ring.

It's been a while since I've been in one,but I believe the link pins into the bolt. If it's coming out of the follower it is coming too far forward. Check for pitting in the chamber. I've had several fails to extract/eject Remingtons cured by lightly honing the chamber.

Thanks, I'll check in the morning when back in the shop.

quote:

Originally posted by sc gunman:
It's been a while since I've been in one,but I believe the link pins into the bolt. If it's coming out of the follower it is coming too far forward. Check for pitting in the chamber. I've had several fails to extract/eject Remingtons cured by lightly honing the chamber.

quote:

Originally posted by Bobster:
OK, checked spring against schematic and serial number. My resource says the recoil spring in my gun was supposed to have a brass sleeve on one end. This spring has only the spring combined with a reversible friction ring.

You're missing the friction piece. The 11-48 is recoil operated, just like the Browning A-5. You'll beat it to death without the friction piece.

Yes! The rear of the receiver is deeply stamped with the rear of the bolt body. Not enough friction to slow it down.

Look inside of the barrel lug where the friction rings are located and see if you have a deep cut into the barrel lug. You will need to have an older shop with the correct reamer to recut the area before it will operate as it did when new. We made lots of things recuts on all of the 11/48's back in the '60's. Recoil operated guns are so much different than the 1100's.

We were a warranty shop for Rem. and I can still see all thoughs old shotguns stacked in the corner waiting to have the mod's.

Les Brooks, retired gunsmith

I still see a few model 11s and 11-48s come through the shop, occasionally. Friction piece is available from GPC, I see. I used to make them when needed, 'cause you couldn't buy but used ones. If I'm not mistaken, the friction piece for a 12g Model 11 can use one made for the Browning A-5, but the 20g was unavailable. The Model 11-48 was made in 28g, also. Friction piece for those would be shop made. Recoil operated shotguns are a different 'critter'. Most require the user to be smarter than the shotgun when it comes to placement and orientation of the steel friction ring. I don't know how many times I've had to explain that those older model autoloading shotguns were designed to function with the standard loadings per gauge ,,,, not the lightly loaded, do-all shells from WalMart. Even the 1100 was designed to use standard loadings, and many times won't cycle with anything but. The Versa-Max is supposed to alleviate this, and is supposed to cycle with most any shell you feed it.

quote:

Originally posted by Bobster:
Yes! The rear of the receiver is deeply stamped with the rear of the bolt body. Not enough friction to slow it down.

She may be 'junked' depending on 'how bad' the imprint is. Sounds like it got shot a lot without the friction piece. The lack of the bronze is probably where its other problems originated. The first thing that gets lost or thrown away with any new firearms purchase is the instruction manual.

Thanks for the help guys! Keep 'em coming.

quote:

Originally posted by Bobster:
Thanks for the help guys! Keep 'em coming.

Next piece of advice, find yourself an old gunsmith who's familiar with these older autoloading shotguns. Let him examine it. You can't know what's wrong without disassembly and examination by experienced eyes and hands. Trying to diagnose and repair without having the shotgun in hand is only guessing...

I own 2, one in 16 another in 12. The 12 ga is flawless, and the shotgun I shoot the best. The sweet 16 was my birthday gift when I was 12, and it is psychotic. When I was in college I took it to Melvin Forbes when he was a gunsmith in Morgantown. He looked at it on his counter and said to take the money I would pay him to fix it, and put it towards a model 1100, then beat the 11-48 with a hammer. I later bought the 1100, but my Dad then gave me the 11-48 12 gauge, since he could not hit anything with it. It is the gun I hunt with, since it shoots where I look. The 1100 sits, except for spring turkey seasons.

The 16 gauge just sits, I have tried to have it fixed and wasted more money than it is worth. I should part it out to GPC and recover some of my losses, but it was my first shotgun and I can't sell it.

So my advice is to part it out, instead of fixing it. Unless it is more than just a shotgun to you.