Hi-i have a bolt action which i am converting to a single shot-i have a feeding ramp make up and a plate to cover the bottom of the action--i don t want to weld the plate --any ideas how to attach
the plate??
thanks Sydney

What action is it, and what's a "feeding ramp make up"?

Hi-It s a shortened 1914 enfield-its has 1 3/8"
removed -it is chambered for a 219 donaldson wasp--the ramp allows me to feed a cartridge into
the chamber
Sydney

Have you thought about the possibility of epoxying the plate, permanently, as part of the stock?

Is that a SMLE or a Pattern '14?

If an SMLE do as the Indians did and just "trap" a wood block between the trigger assembly and the action.

If a P.'14 I would again just put a wooden block into the magazine box.

If welding doesn't appeal then try brazing. It'll do for what you want I think.

quote:

Originally posted by Sydney:
i have a bolt action which i am converting to a single shot-

Mind if I ask why? One can always feed cartridges into a repeater one at a time, but if you ever change your mind or sell it it seems like a lot of work to do/undo for no real benefit I can perceive...

Hi-It s a 1914 enfield chambered for a rimmed 219 donaldson wasp-it has no bottom metal except a short trigger guard-to be used as a varmint/bench
rifle-it didn t warrant all the work to get it feed this cartridge
sydney

I did one which I welded in but it was a pain in the butt to keep the receiver straight. The next one I soft soldered and liked that better. I have epoxied plates in and they seemed fine but I liked the solder better. Regards, Bill.

Hi Bill--I would like to hear more about the actions you did--
--How did you bed the action in the stock??
--How did they feed ??
any info would be helpfull
Thanks for all the answers

in a word - solder - i've done it this way and it was perfectly acceptable, but today i'd heli=arc it in

quote:

Originally posted by Sydney:
Hi Bill--I would like to hear more about the actions you did--
--How did you bed the action in the stock??
--How did they feed ??
any info would be helpfull
Thanks for all the answers

The first P14 was welded in. I used a piece of 1/4x 1 1/4 flat bar. I preheated the action to about 325 degrees. I tacked at each corner then welded in short stitches to try and minimize warpage. It worked fairly well. The rifle was barreled in 303 and weighed about 13 pounds. Accuracy was excellent (under 3/8 MOA) until sierra bullets started being made over .3115 in diameter and were too big for my throat. It is being re-barreled to 30/40 Krag. I bedded this one using the original front screw and drilled and tapped the plate for a center screw. I float the tang. By the way, this was altered to use a Remington 700 trigger which I then converted to a three lever. Striker travel is .312".
The next one a Model 70 which had the plate glued in. This one has been barreled in6 BR, 6.5x55, 308, and 30/06. It is bedded on a machined aluminum bedding block using the original front screw, another 2 inches back, and the original center screw. Again, the tang floats.
Another is a Ruger 77. Soldered-in plate. Will bed using original front screw, a new screw in the center of the plate, and the original center screw (now the rear screw). The tang will float. This is another one which got a Remington 2 oz trigger.
The next P14 is in the works. I will pin and glue this one, I think. Projects for myself tend to take a while (I've not yet finished a 6.5 I started 6 years ago) so it's hard to say when I'll get to this one. Regards, Bill.