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Walnut stock flaw? question
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I just got a Great American #2 fancy walnut stock with lots of mineral streaking and marbleing for a M96/94. Its the goudy classic style.

The ebony wood piece isnt square cut to the walnut . Looking from the bottom It has a Angleed joint to the walnut. Maybe it was square before the stock was cut out and shaped. Is this common ?

Also the joint of the ebony at the barrel channel edge has a tiny gap with no glue in it. whats the best fix for the gap?



Also I have a little void in the wood right where the grip would be checkered Its about 1/8 -1/4" and about the width of a straight pin. Kinda like a big honkin open grain or small knot crack.

I guess that could be filled with oil and sanding dust.

I got a good price from their in stock , stocks, bargin list.



So ill probably keep it . what do you think
 
Posts: 4821 | Location: Idaho/North Mex. | Registered: 12 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Cut the forend tip off and redo it. If you cut carefully, you can redo the ebony. The forend length is usually about an inch short of the barrel length exposed forward of the action. Check the length you need first. If you have to shorten considerably the old piece of ebony may be too small width ways. Although from what I have seen of their blanks you could slim them down and use the left over wood bot build a canoe. Okay an exageration. You will need to sand the stock and the ebony so the the surface is square to the bore and flat. I use a stationary belt sander. If you can reuse the forend tip, drill either one or two holes in the forend for a dowel pin. If they did this previously, just drill in their holes. You will glue it back on using dowel pins in those holes. Line it up so that it the top line of the ebony is level or above the top line of the stock. I use expoxy glue and add some black coloring so if for some reason the joint is wider somewher, you will not see it. Take surgical tubing and run it down the barrel channel and back up the bottom of the stock through the magazine inletting, 2 or three times and this will clamp the forend tip on.

Don't worry too much about the small crack in the checkering area. It will most likely fill as you apply the finish but the checkering may go through it anyway. Fill it later if it does.
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the tips chic.

This forend is kinda short 9 3/4 " from the reciever face. The angle isnt that bad and Nonperfection gives "character" so ill not cut it off . Ill squeeze some black epoxy into the glue viod .
Im going to file back the nose of the comb about a half inch and file the grip area to make the grip longer, slim the fore end. There is plenty of wood extra to make a splinter forend fore a shotgun(kiding).
Man ,,the bottom of the butt line behind the grip cap is angling up high toward the middle of the grip area. Usualy that straight line flows to the base of the trigger guard like a english stock shotgun. I thought it was over cut but looking at there other Goudy stocks that looks like how they are cut. Hmmm.
Gotta find someone to checker this when im done . I need to practice on some of my house furniture first
 
Posts: 4821 | Location: Idaho/North Mex. | Registered: 12 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Here is some pictures , You can barely see the ebony squareness angle

Look at the stock line from the toe to the grip cap, looks like it flows higher than most i have seen.



 
Posts: 4821 | Location: Idaho/North Mex. | Registered: 12 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Listen to experience and do what Mr Worthing suggests.

If you put any effort into this stock, you will forever be sorry that you did not take the few minutes to get that tip on straight. This will fix the gap at the same time. It just doesnt't take that long to do it right.

The stock will have enough wood for you to correct the angle. First be sure the receiver and trigger guard are properly inletted, then work the front part of the grip to meet with the guard. Then you might opt for a smaller butt pad so you can correct that angle. Leave the back of the grip till last. This stock should have enough excess wood to fix that without destroying the proper sweep of the grip. You are correct, those lines should match.

Roger
 
Posts: 71 | Location: Northern Minnesota | Registered: 23 January 2003Reply With Quote
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That angle looks really bad to me.

Why is that stock green?
 
Posts: 5543 | Registered: 09 December 2002Reply With Quote
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The stock looks green because of my scaner , I britened it and contrasted it. Its not green thats just the tint the scaner did.
I wait and see what Chic says about that toe to grip cap cut. I have a feeling this is just the style of this stock.

Ive inleted 2 boyds stocks and they took alot of work and I scimmed alittle glass bed onder the rear tang and front lug ,1 " or so of barrel. They both turned out great.
This is my first real nice piece of wood,
Its supposed to be pre fitted.
The barreled action and bottom metal are real snug , but I can tell already after tighting the screws that its going to need some glass on the flat behind the recoil lug( I can slide several layers of thick paperunder the reciever easy, and also the rear tang to the rear trigger guard is missing too much wood . Way Too much of the rear screw hangs down when its put in the hole of the bare stock. The rear stock bolt spacer is quit abit longer than the wood matterial they left where it slides in the stock. Looks like it will need glass under the rear trigger guard tang.

Rick
 
Posts: 4821 | Location: Idaho/North Mex. | Registered: 12 June 2002Reply With Quote
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